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Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 01:34:50 +0100
From: Robert Brown <rjbnopsamnetNOSPAM.se>
Subject: Re: Clutch hydrolic on '88 900s needs help!


Hi, I agree that one possible cause would be the ovalling-out of the hole in the brake pedal arm (which Paul G mentions in his recent posting). But I don't think that would fully account for the excessive amount of play that you mention. I'll give you a selection of causes that I've had on my cars (1983 900 GL and 1983 99 GL): 1. Rust on inside of master cylinder wall. Causes leakage of fluid past piston until piston seal manages to contact a part of the cylinder wall which is completely smooth (by which time you may have pushed the pedal half way down. Can sometime be fixed with emery (sand) paper, new seal, and a lot of patience. Not changing your brake/clutch fluid often enough causes internal rusting. 2. Air in hydraulics. Bleed this out by pressurising from fluid resevoir. Can also be done by pumping on pedal and opening valve on slave cylinder, but the latter method requires 2 people and good timing for synchronising pedal presses and valve opens . . . 3. Broken return spring inside master cylinder. My favourite. Have had this one three times because I push pedal all the way to the floor (hard) when I shift so I break springs often. The function of the return spring is to ensure that the piston in the master cylinder returns to the aftmost position possible after taking foot off the pedal. This ensures that the maximum amount of fluid is in the cylinders and pipe. When the spring breaks, the system cannot fill up properly, so the pedal will not return properly. Eventually you can't get in gear . . . Your theory about leaking slave: If the slave cylinder is leaking enough to cause shifting problems, this means you'd be losing brake/clutch fluid at a sufficient rate to notice this via the resevoir level (i.e. brake warning light comes on after a while). Hope these ideas help. Tell us what the trouble turned out to be. Regards, Robert holst architecture wrote: > This is what happens. Cluth does not disengage when I start up the > car. It needs to worm up quite a bit to start functioning, especially > bad in cold morning. Friend told me that it could be air in hydrolic > system that need be bleed, or slave sylinder leaking. Need your > opinions. > > Plus clutch pedal has got play for the first 3/4 of its stroke. How do > you fix?

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