Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 21:32:58 GMT
From: ucenopsamgov (Mauricio Tavares)
Subject: Re: FAQ:  Help needed in replacing clutch in a 88 900


On Wed, 23 Feb 2000 18:13:41 +0100, Robert Brown <rjbnopsamnetNOSPAM.se> wrote: >Hi, > >After plastic clutch cowling and clutch axle are moved out of the way, the >general idea is to get someone to push the clutch pedal all the way to the >floor (and hold) while you put in a metal hoop between the clutch springs Ooops. I see where I did my first mistake. I did not have anything to put on it but a rope and tried that. I guess the rope was too pliable to do any good =( >and the pressure plate frame. Once that's done, you can remove the three >allen key bolts on the slave cylinder. Removal is done by pulling the >pressure plate assembly (with clutch plate inside), thrust bearing, >plastic stop ring, and slave cylinder out all at the same time. Be careful >not to let the slave cylinder piston shoot out too far. > Hmmm. Isn't the stop ring located in the front of the housing? >Let's talk about that "hoop". Saab have a tool for this that works well >but I've never seen one myself. Some manuals suggest a spark plug wire >works well but I've never succeeded in jamming one in there. I use a piece >of very heavy wire (a bit more than twice the thickness of coat hanger >wire) that I've bent to the right shape. Make sure to leave a bit of a >handle on the end, so there's something to hang onto when you want to pull >it out. Also make sure that it goes _all_ the way around so that all >spring elements are held. > Oh ok. So I will try to get a decently thick wire for the job before the weekend then. I did notice about the jamming part; I tried a spark plug wire and did not have much luck. Sometimes I feel "how can I press the clutch deep enough so I can squeeze the wire?" With your wire coat hanger apporach, I wonder how do I know the spring elements are properly compressed. >What's important is that the hoop is thick enough, otherwise the spring >won't compress sufficiently and you won't have room enough to get the >pressure plate, slave cyl etc out. Then you risk damaging the clutch >contact surface on the flywheel, as I've done on my car . . . > I think my friend managed to damange the base of the clutch "ram" already when he was trying to take it out and got really pissed; I hope the damage was not too terrible. >Excuse the wordy answer, but I hope it helps. One thing is on the classic >900, a clutch change is said to be much easier than on almost any other >car - so it should be doable in under 4 hours, working very slowly with >coffee breaks, as I do. > I hope so too. I really want to get this out and done with. I was told by a friend it was a 30 minutes job, but it has not been the case yet. >Somewhere out in the garage I have a Swedish Saab workshop manual on the >subject which also lists the part number of the "hoop" if you or anyone >else needs it. Post here or mail me (remove NOSPAM in address) if that's >the case. > If the car was mine, I would love to get a shop manual for it. But it is not, so... --------------------------------------------------------------------- WARNING: if replying to this email, use the address below. The address above, ucenopsamgov, is for the government's spam patrol ;) -----------------+--------------------------------------------------- Mauricio Tavares | "If it makes you happy, it can't be that bad. raubnopsamorg | If it makes you happy, then why are you so sad?" -----------------+------------------------------------- Sheryl Crow

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