Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 18:13:41 +0100
From: Robert Brown <rjbnopsamnetNOSPAM.se>
Subject: Re: FAQ:  Help needed in replacing clutch in a 88 900


Hi, After plastic clutch cowling and clutch axle are moved out of the way, the general idea is to get someone to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor (and hold) while you put in a metal hoop between the clutch springs and the pressure plate frame. Once that's done, you can remove the three allen key bolts on the slave cylinder. Removal is done by pulling the pressure plate assembly (with clutch plate inside), thrust bearing, plastic stop ring, and slave cylinder out all at the same time. Be careful not to let the slave cylinder piston shoot out too far. Get someone to stand on the used pressure plate assembly while you get the "hoop" out. Then carefully compress the new pressure plate assembly (ideally using a press, but any nimble and heavy assistant will do ;-) and put the "hoop" in as before. Stick in new clutch plate (observe correct orientation), new thrust bearing, and stick the whole lot back in - be sure to align pressure plate assemboly with the 6 (?) metal sprigs on the flywheel. When tightening allen key bolts on slave cylinder, use Loctite or similar compound. This may also apply to the bolts that fix the pressure plate to the flywheel but I don't recall at the moment. It was 9 months since I did my last clutch job . . . Let's talk about that "hoop". Saab have a tool for this that works well but I've never seen one myself. Some manuals suggest a spark plug wire works well but I've never succeeded in jamming one in there. I use a piece of very heavy wire (a bit more than twice the thickness of coat hanger wire) that I've bent to the right shape. Make sure to leave a bit of a handle on the end, so there's something to hang onto when you want to pull it out. Also make sure that it goes _all_ the way around so that all spring elements are held. What's important is that the hoop is thick enough, otherwise the spring won't compress sufficiently and you won't have room enough to get the pressure plate, slave cyl etc out. Then you risk damaging the clutch contact surface on the flywheel, as I've done on my car . . . Excuse the wordy answer, but I hope it helps. One thing is on the classic 900, a clutch change is said to be much easier than on almost any other car - so it should be doable in under 4 hours, working very slowly with coffee breaks, as I do. Somewhere out in the garage I have a Swedish Saab workshop manual on the subject which also lists the part number of the "hoop" if you or anyone else needs it. Post here or mail me (remove NOSPAM in address) if that's the case. Regards, Robert (1983 900 GL man 5, 1999 9-3 200) Mauricio Tavares wrote: > A friend of mine has a 88 900 that is giving the symptoms of a > slipping clutch (engine is revved up but car moves slowly). We want > to take the clutch plates out to inspect but none of us have ever > worked on a Saab. Bentley probably has a book on that car but we want > to get this done this week so waiting for the book show up someday is > not a solution. > > Looking at the Haynes manual, they mention holding the fingers so to > remove the load on the clutch ram (whatever you want to call it) and > take it off. But, how to do that? How to pull the fingers out of the > way? > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > WARNING: if replying to this email, use the address below. The > address above, ucenopsamgov, is for the government's spam patrol ;) > -----------------+--------------------------------------------------- > Mauricio Tavares | "If it makes you happy, it can't be that bad. > raubnopsamorg | If it makes you happy, then why are you so sad?" > -----------------+------------------------------------- Sheryl Crow

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