Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 21:29:06 +0100
From: Robert Brown <rjbnopsamripnetvvv.se>
Subject: Re: 84 900 turbo clutch


davehinznopsamcop.net wrote: > Someone who looks an awful lot like Grunff <grunffnopsam.com> wrote: > > davehinznopsamcop.net wrote: > > >> If you don't have to open > >> up the hydraulic system, avoid it if at all possible, bleeding the bubbles > >> out of it is a pain in the butt, big time. > > > First time I bled a C900 clutch, it took me half a day to > > get it right. I then made a pressure bleeder using a > > reservoir cap, some tube, and a garden sprayer. > > Actually, I've found a method which doesn't suck. The reason that the > bubbles are hard to get out, is the long vertical steel pipe working > against you. So, just use that to your advantage, and bleed it > backwards. I used a turkey baster from the kitchen (ahem. I need > to go buy another turkey baster, I just remembered.), with some clear hose > from the hardware store. Use the baster as an open-topped funnel (I suppose > a funnel would work as well), elevate it well above the height of the > reservoir. I held it to the opened hood with a clothespin, but of course > duct tape would work. Attach the end of the hose that's not on the funnel, to > the bleeder nipple on the clutch slave cylinder, open that up, and > take the cover off the reservoir. Idea here is to push fluid & air UP into > the reservoir, so you're not fighting gravity with the air bubbles. Add fluid > to the funnel until the bubbles come out through the reservoir, crank down > the bleeder nipple, test it, repeat if necessary, and you're done. > > I'm not saying it's more (or less) elegant than the garden sprayer solution, > but letting gravity help you, rather than fight it, works for me. > > Dave Hinz Hey wait a minute . . . reading these last two postings, it's easy to get the impression that changing the clutch generally involves opening the hydraulics, this making bleeding the system necessary. Not always so. I've changed three clutches (2x900, 1x99, all 1983 models) and in none of these cases did I have to bleed the hydraulics. There is generally no reason to disconnect any piping. When removing the clutch assembly (plate, diaphragm, etc), it *is* necessary to slide the slave cylinder across at the same time, but this can be done without disconnecting the hydraulics. The short length of rubber hydraulic tubing close to the slave allows this. Just make sure that the slave cylinder piston stays in place during the operation. Also be sure to avoid getting score marks on the piston due to collision with the diaphragm springs, because you'll feel these with your left foot once you've got the whole kit back together. Once the new clutch assy is back in place with the slave, remember to use Loctite on the 3 bolts holding the slave cyl in place. I don't recall Loctite being recommended for the bolts holding the clutch diaphragm to the flywheel though (someone else remember?). Apart from that, I second all that Dave and Grunff have said about turkeys and bubbles etc ;-) especially if you find you need to disconnect the hydraulic pipes or get air in some other way . . . Good luck and post if you need more info. As you see, you have at least three of us ready to give you advice ;-)) /Robert (drives an Audi now and will sell it before it's time to do the clutch)

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