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Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2002 15:09:11 -0000
From: SkodaPilot <carl.robsonnopsamcing-czechs.com>
Subject: Re: Where can I find a buyer guide to the classic 900 (not the       newer 900/9-3/9-5)


In article <B9FBE371.1176%pjghnopsamyonder.co.uk>, pjghnopsamyonder.co.uk says... > in article MPG.183f8ff471d7e6ad9896b8nopsam.cis.dfn.de, Skodapilot at > carl.robsonnopsamcing-czechs.com wrote on 15/11/2002 23:13: > > > In article <B9FB2866.1153%pjghnopsamyonder.co.uk>, pjghnopsamyonder.co.uk > > spouted forth into alt.autos.saab... > >> in article MPG.183f734b3c67fd169896b6nopsam.cis.dfn.de, Skodapilot at > >> carl.robsonnopsamcing-czechs.com wrote on 15/11/2002 21:11: > >> > >> <snip>Proposal that the earlier 900 model would be a good start for > >> Carl</snip> > > <snip>Skoda Rally & the Saab 99</snip> > > > The 130LR Group B Estelle was the last of the Skoda rear engined rally > > cars. > > And does bear something of a resembelance. > > http://www.skoda-owners-club.co.uk/special/s130lr-n.jpg > > http://www.skoda-owners-club.co.uk/special/s130lr-e.jpg > > http://www.skoda-owners-club.co.uk/special/s130lr-l.jpg > > That's the one - cool. It is a very nice car, looking battered and rattly now (seeing as every panel is shaved to wafer thin on the inside to save weight). The day that was taken John Haugland came into the UK to see his former factory car, and take it for a spin, to show it's new owner John Shelley how it is supposed to be driven. not bad taking a 1980's Group B car, and hammering the hell out of it all day, and not killing it. Haugy always refers to the car "Our 130LR" when he talks to John Shelley. > <snip>Listen to the car :)</snip> > > > Yeah, that sounds like the kind of things I do. I tend to get to know > > every sqeak and creak of a car, and know when something doesn't sound > > healthly, even when MOT inspectors don't consider it a problem. > > That's it - put a couple of thousand miles on the car and you'll know it > quite intimately. I've always replaced the rotor arm, cap, leads and sparks > at the first possible opportunity and then gone on a good long drive to > settle then in and get to know the car. Giving the car every opportunity to > fire correctly is a good start. An oil change as soon as possible is good as > well - it starts the car off with a known service record :) I've always > bitten the bullet and gone for a Wynn's flush and then fully-synthetic - all > three 900s I've owned have been fine with it and not dropped afterwards. Sounds like the basic service I always do within a week of buying any car. > IMPORTANT: Use NGK sparks only - a whole thread could arise from this point. > Do not use *any* other make of spark. Saabs only like NGK and only the right > one. Period. There's a wealth of experience in this group as to while > product to use. I like NGK plugs. Found they work really well, compared to the Champions that Skoda recommend. I tried the copper core ones in my Favorit, but because I had a dealer service and MOT deal done recently, I hate to think what cheapness he has fitted. > Also, a point on oil leaks. The oil pressure sender? switch? atop the oil > filter sometimes leaks - this costs about 0.50 UKP, so not a big deal. The > crank case vent sometimes gets gubbed up and oil then leaks out of the > bottom of the dipstick tube. Just pop the pipes off the top of the crank > case, clean them and get a new dipstick tube - costs about 3.50 UKP. Funnily enough, had a pressure sender/switch go on the Favorit, and pretty much as you describe (above the filter). Sounds like a very similar engine, Alloy block, camchain not belt, can use an oil cooler take off and t piece for the pressure sender, and route it back to the block at the other end. Is it pushrod or oeverhead cam? > > Yeah. I know not to get over > > enthusiastic and think "What the hell" when I look at a car, although my > > last two choices of Skoda have both looked dog rough (and looked even > > rougher once I've started with them) Both have been basically > > structurally sound, and mechanically pefect, and never missed a beat, > > maybe I just get a feeling if it is a good one. > > That's really my point about looking for good bodywork - the engines are > generally sound on the 900s and you'll *know* if it's a dog. Good bodywork > adds to the pleasure of the car and needs less welding around the sills for > the MOT :) I know about that sort of thing, even on the Favorit, that passed the MOT, then managed to turn the sill into weetabix(the next day) as I tried to remove the car from the axlestand, after swapping in a set of decent sporting lowered shocks. > <snip>Tackling jobs as an amateur mechanic</snip> > > The brakes I've replaced have not led to disaster. It's a simple procedure > really and well documented in the Haynes. I did have to stop at > re-conditioning a brake caliper and just had it replaced with a new one by > my Saab mechanics. Cost around 80 UKP, with sending the old one off to be > re-conditioned. I do have a slight slip on one of my calipers, but it's only > in reverse and I always check that it actually brakes again when moving > forwards. It gives a kind of clunk and then sort of falls over slightly on > that side :) I'm getting it replaced shortly. All sounds fairly straight forward then. -- Carl Robson http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

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