Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2002 10:08:30 -0500
From: "G Noble" <liladigsnopsamr.net>
Subject: Re: Eureka!! '89 9000 CD turbo sputter solved for $150 Canadian!!!


On my 89 900 T16 the emissions diagram called for a PCV valve on the vac hose from the cam cover to the manifold. It wasn't there. I noticed oil in my dist cap when I changed it last tune-up. I put in a PVC where it should be and notised my boost was much better. Could be the cause of the pressure if youy don't have a PCV. An old O-Ring would add to the problem as well. Greg "J Dexter" <noaddressnopsamantispamtrick.org> wrote in message news:3DE596F4.CBA7655nopsamantispamtrick.org... > Salutations: > > > > > Ah, the ol' oil-fouling, rotor-dripping, wire-shorting thing. Good > > find. > > > > Thank you for the praise I think.. > > And, well, that was the damnable part of the whole affair - it's not dripping at > all - it's a very, very fine trace of engine oil and when stopped and cooled - > it's not there at all.. It's just grimy like the rest of the bay on a 300,000k > regularly rust proofed car.. > > The reason my man at Tom's worked it out is - I took it for a hard run around > the neighborhood and pulled into the bay immediately. He popped the hood and > noticed a fine film on the lower rotor.. In fact - the only reason he was > willing to proceed along these lines at all is that when we pulled wire from he > rotor it looked shiny in there.. > > I've (an no doubt the two previous owners who gave up on this) had the wires off > repeatedly and the wire cap and rotor are dry when cooled down.. Replacing the > rotor and the wires fixed the problem temporarily for all of us - but it would > appear again within a couple of hours of driving.. > > Interestingly - I last replaced my normal black rotor with an orange one last > time and this fluke aided greatly in the diagnoses.. > > > > > > On a simply roll over compression test - I'm reading 130-130-145-128 on the > > > pistons (304,000k on the engine).. Is this remarkably low? > > > > When you say "roll over", you mean turning by hand, (???) or with the > > starter? If it's a turbo, the compression ratio without the turbo > > running is low anyway, and that looks un-concerning. They're not > > all that unbalanced, certainly within tolerance. > > We turned it on the starter and I have it wrong - it was 130 130 135 128.. The > question is, what would be normal compression on the turbo 9000 CD from the > factory? Sorry to be stunned, but someone must have the figures here.. > > > > > More likely just the O-rings in the distributor assembly at that mileage. > > I don't know if it's worth chasing too much into the crankcase ventilation... > > Thanks - this is exciting news - the distributor head looks expensive if I have > to replace the whole unit.. An O Ring is not always the case as you will know.. > Also - having repalced the O rings - is there a rotor and wire cap set I can get > that seals a little tighter (like with a lip) on the rotor stems? It gets > AWFULLY wet in the engine bay around here in the spring and fall > > > > > Pretty sure, yup. > > Much appreciated advise, again thanks.. > > > > > Dave Hinz > > Anyway - now smiling from ear to ear every time I look out at my now (soon to be > permanently) sputter free darling in the parking slip.. > > Tune into the station below if you have realaudio running - Let me know how it > works from where you are if you have a mind to.. > > J Dexter - webmaster - http://www.dexterdyne.org/ > All tunes no cookies no ads no news no weather no phone in All the Time..

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