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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 08:52:05 +0100
From: Robert Brown <rjbnopsamripnetvvv.se>
Subject: Re: Brake Caliper Causing Pull?


MH wrote: ----8<------ cutting earlier stuff > > > The piston may be corroded so that it will not retract enough after you take > your foot off the brake pedal. In that case you will have to replace it. > > Is there not a special tool needed to allow the piston to retract? or was > that with a 99/900 only? > True. I think you mean the older Girlings of 1986 and earlier (the ones with a very large pressed metal frame yoke) . . . because the handbrake cable activated the front calipers and the piston had to be rotated to retract it. <expounding a bit for the original poster (Lee) >: The corrosion thing is what caused my problems time and time again on my old Saabs. Either rotting seals allowing water to get in, or not changing brake fluid often enough (hydrophilic, so it absorbs water from the atmosphere). I've either replace seal sets, or whole brake calipers, depending on damage. One thing I have found, though, is that it is quite OK to have a new/reconditioned caliper on one side, and an old caliper on the other. The critical issue is of course that the old one is fully up to spec, i.e. moves as freely as the new one. I don't subscribe to the idea of changing both at the same time for the sake of it. That is sometimes a waste of money. But it is vital that old calipers are reconditioned periodically (a rubber seal kit and brake fluid is cheap). The test is to drive a few minutes and check the disks' temperature by hand (with caution). If temperatures are either high or uneven between left and right disks, then you have an issue to deal with. /Robert

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