Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2003 21:49:37 -0000 From: MeatballTurbo <carl.robsonnopsamcing-czechs.com> Subject: Re: Update on the white smoke.
In article <b3b9a0$1k4ehe$1nopsam52899.news.dfncis.de>, grunffnopsam.com spouted forth into alt.autos.saab... > MeatballTurbo wrote: > > > However when I had the intake pipes off the fit the dumpvalve, i found > > that both the pipe from the filter to the turbo, and from the turbo to > > the intercooler had a fair bit of oil in them. Not old thick crusted > > oil, but a fine but total coating (even when cold). > > > > I guess I could stip them and clean them with carb cleaner, but how > > would I flush the intercooler through? > > This is perfectly normal - honest. I haven't seen a single Saab > without oil in those pipes. In that case, I'll leave well alone, as long as it passes the MOT. > As for the IC, it's very very unlikely to be blocked in any way > - just think about the force of the air rushing through it. But > if you really want to, you can take it off the car and pour a > couple of litres of ether into it (carb cleaner). Wasn't really worried about blockage, more oil extra oil being blown through the intake and being burnt causing emission probs for the MOT. > > The CV joint wasn't replaced. Phoned the usual garage I use for bigger > > jobs that frighten me (normally brakes/suspension/clutch/gearbox stuff) > > they quoted me £131 inc vat parts and labour, after I told the the about > > Erocarparts prices for the CV kit. They tested it had it on full lock > > and drove it round and round, left and right in first and could find > > anything other than a slight click. they did find a track rod end worn, > > so I said book it in for next week, least I could do seeing as they had > > bought parts in on my sayso without diagnosing the problem. > > The CVs are dead easy on a 900, much easier than most other > cars. The trick here is to leave the hub nut alone, and just > undo the top/bottom ball joints, and withdray the whole > driveshaft (all the way up to the inner joint, but not including > the inner driver). You can then work on it on the bench (or > kitchen floor). I had a look in the Haynes. I looked to be a retained Circlip that holds the CV joint on. > > The mechanic that looked at it said all he could feel through the wheel > > was the engine power, but I'm talking low speed, 1st gear, and rolling > > not pulling away. It almost feels like the wheel has gone oval when it > > is happening, but not the rest of the time. When he had it on the lift, > > he checked for play in the joint, and found no difference between either > > side. both had a little play, neither was particularly bad. I guess that > > means either both need replacing, or both are fine. > > If you're intending to keep the car for a while, and want it to > drive the way it did when it was new, seriously consider doing > all 4 balljoints, and both track rod ends. This is again pretty > straightforward, and they are cheap parts. Yeah. I plan that this car will be around atleast a year, 3 or more probably, unless something stupid happens to it, and it gets written off. It still drives very well now. It drives normally, and you can only hear road noise without the radio on. Maybe a little spongy in the shocks, but thats about all. -- Carl Robson (The poster formerly known as Skodapilot) http://www.bouncing-czechs.com
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