Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 12:22:06 GMT From: "Fred W." <grunffnopsam.com> wrote in message news:bbhko0$994op$1nopsam52899.news.dfncis.de... > MarkC wrote: > > How involving is it to change one of these? I may need one. Is there a > > way to test check to make sure it's bad? > > Thanks for any advice, > > When they start failing, the inner steel hub moves relative to > the outer steel ring (because the rubber holding them together > is old and knackered). > > To find out if yours is doing this, draw a thin while line along > the pulley's radius, all the way from centre to circumference. > If it ever slips, the line will no longer be continuous. Should you need to replace it, it's a piece of cake if you have the right tools. You need to remove the right wheel and the plastic inside fender liner, then the multi-rib drive belt has to come off. Then, while an assistant is holding the crank from turning by inserting a good sized screwdriver in the flywheel ring gear (thru the little hole provided between the engine and transmission), you'll need a big 1/2" drive breaker bar and 1 1/16" socket (or whatever that is in mm's) to remove the bolt on the crankend. Once you get the bolt off, the "harmonic balancer" (really just a crank pulley) slides right off. You'll want to replace the main seal there while you have the pulley off, and when you replace it, you'll need a torque wrench so you can tighten the bolt to spec. It's all really quite easy... -Fred --- so why do all my "metric sockets" have 1/2" drives?