Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 07:47:33 -0400
From: "J. Harris" <>
Subject: Re: Saab 9-3 Convertible Aero Article

Bob, Thanks for the pointers! And glad you liked Eric's site. Have a great weekend. Jack '01 9-3 SE '97 900 SE '88 9000T R.I.P. "'nuther Bob" <> wrote in message news:c8vrgvo3q1hagbm3n2p9ngcnkmvmn27vg2nopsamcom... > On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 12:38:39 -0400, "J. Harris" > <> wrote: > > >Initially I'd thought of only "upgrading" the '01; however, if the '97 > >"upgrades" are more affordable then I'd love to hear about those too. > > > > > I hadn't see Eric's site before. That's a great overview of most of > what you need to consider. Read through his site for general > background and possible step-by-step when you get ready. > Here's what I'd suggest: > > For the '01, you need to purchase an ECU upgrade. An MBC will not > work with that Trionic. I did a post here a few months ago with some > companies listed that will sell you an ECU. Prices range from $500 > to $1000. > > For the '97, either buy an Dawes MBC or make your own. I can point you > to the source site (plans) for what Dawes sells. I even made a minor > improvement in the design if you are planning on making your own. An > ECU upgrade is better, but it's the same money cited above. > > Do an airbox upgrade on both. You can do what Eric did. I did mine a > little different, same rough idea but I got the intake down to the > headlight/bumper are to insure cool air, not hot engine air. Again, > if you're up for it, I will post details. It's easy. Add the K&N > filter for both. > > Do the sports exhaust on both, unless the '01 came with it. > > Do the turbo silencer removal on the '97 (not there on the '01). > > Do the throttle body "polish and port" on the '97. Again, I improved > slightly on what Eric did by doing both ends of the pipe and also the > body to manifold connection. I don't know if the '01 needs this, but > it's simple to check. Again, details available. > > * So far, unless you buy an ECU upgrade, you've spent less that $100 > in parts in total for both cars. Spin up will be *significantly* > reduced. Max boost will be increased with no "fade". With these > mods in my car ('97), I can hold the boost at the redline easily. > I only have a very slight delay pulling out into traffic if I forget > to rev it first before it starts to fly. I actually broke the front > end free *at speed* when going WOT in 2nd gear at 3000RPM to pass > (in a legal passing zone :-) the other day. It rocks. > > Do the '97 first if you like. See what you think. It's a little > time, but little money. > > Read what Eric has to say about the 3" downpipe. The decrease in > spool time is amazing. It requires a fair bit of custom work to > work in a new cat. It's also a little pricy. > > You should also consider some suspension work: This can get into > some money. With added power you should have a little more > suspension. > > I highly recommend Koni shocks/struts. I would not buy the 'Steins as > Eric suggests as they are not adjustable. If you don't like it, tough > luck. With the Koni's, you dial it what you want. > > Do the springs if you don't mind the clearance reduction and a > slightly harsher ride. The lower CoG will make a big difference. > Eibach are the most gentle. BOGE are a bit > harsh according to reports. Abbott and Swedish Dynamics are even > harder. Don't do the springs without changing the shocks to > something like Koni's or 'Steins. (I think that I could avoid > the tire breakaway at speed with stiffer springs but I have a > 'vert and I am reluctant to stiffen the suspension due to the > chassis flex issues. ) > > Consider the steering rack brace; there are two sources for kits if > you don't want to DIY like Eric did. Check Talafarina Saab and/or > Abbott Racing.) > > A rear sway bar is easy to do, but not really a "must have". The can > also cause a little inside rear wheel lift on tight corners, although > reports I've read are good on this issue. > > Bounce back any questions you have. > > Bob

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