Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 11:07:19 -0500 From: ma_twain <ma_twainnospamo.com> Subject: Re: questions about 9-3 oil changes
Valued Customer wrote: I would find a new dealership. They are feeding up a bunch of BS about requiring a "special wrench" to remove the oil drain bolt. Oil drain bolts do not need to be nor should they be torqued in that tight. The Saab shop I use said it should be just over hand tight - the drain pans are soft alloy and over tightening can strip the expensive pan, not the inexpensive bolt :-) One explanation is the bolt was cross threaded when it was installed at the dealer/factory. > Hello, > > Owner of a '99 9-3 CV here... I recently caused $500+ damage by > changing the engine oil myself. I was cussing out the dealership the > whole time while trying to remove a hopelessly siezed drainpan bolt. > What should have taken 15 minutes turned into a 6 hour nightmare. The > bolt was tourqued down very tightly and they used a copper washer > between the bolt head and the pan. > > When I went to the dealership sometime later, they told me the head of > the bolt isn't designed to be loosened with a regular wrench, the > copper washer is used becuase it's soft and forms a seal, and the > torque applied was by the book. > > While I've let the dealership change my oil since, these answers have > never set well with me. > > 1. Does anyone change their own oil in a 9-3? > 2. Is it really necessary to torque the sh!t out of the plug? > 3. What makes the head of the bolt so special that the dealer claims > there is a special wrench used for oil changes? > 4. If you change your own oil, do you use the copper gasket? I tried > to go once without it and had a constant slow leak. > > Thanks! >
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