Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 10:15:25 -0700 From: "Tom" <saabtechnospampipex.com> Subject: Re: [Saab_c900] balljoint removal/replacment on a C900 - tools? tips?
"Craig's Saab C900 Site" <c900nospam.apana.org.au> wrote in message news:mailman.16.1128230129.559.saab_c900nospam.apana.org.au... > > Hi everyone, > > I'm trying to replace a dud balljoint on my 1985 900i (they all need > replacing but one at a time suits me so far!) and am a bit stuck (for want > of a better phrase!). I've posted a couple of messages and linked to some > pictures via this forum thread: > > http://www.nospam.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=137 > > Please take a look and let me know what you think. I could well be trying > to remove the upper balljoint using the wrong method so please jump in and > suggest some ideas! If you're interested in checking out the image > galleries themselves, the new image gallery system is accessible at: > > http://www.nospam.net/gallery2 > > Feel free to create your own Saab-related image galleries and upload your > images if you would like to! > > Thanks very much for any help you can provide. > > Regards, > > Craig. > > -- > Craig's Saab C900 Page --> http://nospam/~c900 Sydney, NSW > Australia > Craig's Classic Saab Workshop -- For Saab 99/C900/9000 Enthusiasts > world-wide! > http://www.nospam.net http://www.nospam > c900nospam.apana.org.au > Come and explore our site, and check out our web-forums, mailing list, > etc This is the simple way of doing classic 900 ball joints if you do not have the `correct` tools, Take off hub cap, loosen cv nut and wheel nuts, jack up front of car and place on axle stands at the front jacking points and remove wheel. Swing hub outwards so the track rod end is easier to get at, undo nut and remove tre by giving the steering arm a whack with a hammer where the pin of the tre goes through, A two pound hammer is about the best size.Now place a jack under the lower wishbone where the ball joint is located and jack up until the shocker starts to compress a little, undo lower shock nut [11/16af] and pry away shock from mounting pin, lower the jack under the wishbone, this allows for the the tension on the joints to be released, easier and safer than chocking up the top arm. The next two steps are not mandatory but it makes it easier, undo brake calliper [and cable if fitted], hang up brake calliper up to prevent strain on brake hose, undo cv nut and tap inwards with a copper hammer, some do requre a bit of a wallop to get them to move, undo through nuts and bolts on joint in question and swing hub outwards by tapping hub where the joint goes through if needed, undo ball pin nut, using the good old two pounder a few sharp wacks on the pin eye and out she pops. It is definately worth doing both joints at the same time as checking for play without taking the tension of first is nigh on immpossible and I have seen 900`s pass their mot with ball joints that are on the point of failure. Reassembley is the reverse of what you have done [quote from Haynes manual]. HTH Tom, Saabtech.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
