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help with fuel pump and fuel sender r&r!
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Posted by Paul Willis [Email] (more from Paul Willis) on Thu, 5 Sep 2002 17:45:57 Share Post by Email
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I recently did some fuel sender and fuel pump work on my 1991 turbo, and I learned some tricks which I thought might help someone else out with similar problems.

The fuel sender on my 1991 turbo recently crapped out, and I needed to pull it out of the fuel tank to see what was wrong. By shorting the wires in the lead to the sender (the black one is the ground, and the other two are for the empty warning light and for the fuel level, respectively) I was able to get readings on the gauge, so I knew the sender was in trouble. The plastic ring that seals the sender base to the fuel tank is very hard to remove, but using a tip from someone on this bulletin board, I used the plastic-coated handles of quite large channel locks to twist and loosen the plastic ring, and it worked great.

Pulled out the sender and found that the rest of the unit had separated from the top platic section that has all of the connections, and was rolling around in the fuel tank somewhere. The opening for the sender is too small to see much, and after fishing around a little realized that by removing the fuel pump, which is much larger, I would be able to get to most of the tank and get the sender body out.

Next problem--the plastic ring holding the pump to the fuel tank was even harder to get off than for the sender! Its a ribbed ring that is sort of countersunk below the opening in the tank where the pump attaches, and is almost impossible to loosen or spin using the old screwdirver and hammer approach. I finally decided to make my own tool, and from the hardware store I got a PVC (plumbing pipe) section that was 5/5 inches in outer diameter that I then cut slots in to match the ribs on the plastic ring so that I could sit the tool on top and get plenty of twisting leverage to break the thing loose. I had to file down the edges of the tool a little so its outside diamter was more like 5.25 inches so it would seat properly on the plastic ring, and I also cut two slots on the top of the tool to recieve a very large screwdriver shaft that I could use to twist the tool with a lot of force. After getting the tool and screwdriver in place, one hard twist and it began to loosen.

On top of the pump is an electrical connection and two small hose connections that have to be removed by first removing a plastic retainer held in place by a little allen screw. Then I removed the wire clip and carefully lifted up the plastic elbows that have the small hoses connected to them. They come straight up out of the little shaft they're seated in, and are only held in by the friction of little o-rings on the elbow, so you just be careful prying them up so you don't break the elbows.

After getting the ring and the connectors off, pulling out the pump is a little tricky because you need to pull it up and then lean it over at a good angle to clear a little dodad near the bottom that stick out, but its not too hard. Before I pulled the pump, I marked its orientation to the fuel tank because it needs to go back in the tank pointing the same way. With the pump out of the way, I could stick my forearm up to my elbow in the tank and quickly found the body of the sender unit, and fished around for any other pieces that had fallen off, though it turns out there weren't any. Putting the pump back in, its important to keep the pump oriented in the same way as before you took it out, and as the plastic ring tightens, the pump assembly wants to turn. You can keep this from happening by pushing down on the assembly with a screwdriver or whatever as you tighten the plastic ring with your new tool (I'm keeping it around in case I need to get at the fuel pump again for any reason).

After getting an $80 quote from the dealer on a new fuel sender, I decided to try to put the thing back together an reconnect the broken wires. This was quite frustrating at times, but I got it to work, and screwed the metal body housing to the plastic top section so it would stay for a while (I autocross alot, which is probably what caused the problem to some extent). So far, so good. At any rate, good luck with your repair.




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