...with black plastic clutch cover off, remove EVERY OTHER ONE of the six pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts, and loosen the other three most of the way. Pry the pressure plate up off the dowel pins that hold it to flywheel and pop three fat nuts under the "ears" of the pressure plate forging, where they stick out through the outer shell, just at the rivet that attaches the anchor straps that link it to the outer shell. I use 1/2" NC nuts from a hardware store but anything pretty big will work. Then tighten down on the three bolts that you left in, and it has the effect of raising the pressure plate to its released position, with the spring fingers depressed. Then slip into position the Saab tool to hold the fingers depressed, or some say a bent handle off a 5-gallon bucket, or a piece of bicycle brake cable housing.
Tool in place, remove the three bolts. Pry the bail back and remove the clutch shaft cover, unscrew the nylon oil slinger, insert an M8 bolt in clutch shaft and pop the clutch shaft back and out of the way (doesn't need to come out of car, only pull out as far towards radiator as it can go). Then undo the three screws, usually allen headed and hard to get at, that hold the slave cylinder onto the tranny housing. Then keeping slave, throwout bearing, pressure plate and clutch disk all together, they should slip out. Evaluate and figure out what you need to replace.
You don't need to disconnect the slave from the hydraulic line, there's enough slack in the flex section of the line to move it aside. But don't let anyone hit clutch pedal while slave cylinder is out of car or it will pop the cylinder apart and you'll need to reassemble or rebuild it and bleed the hydraulics.
To remove the clutch shaft there's a trick, using a long M8 bolt threaded all the way, an M8 nut, a couple of wide washers like fender washers, and a socket that lets the shaft fit in it. Run the nut on up to the head of the bolt, put on the washers, put it thru the socket so the open end is facing out, then thread it home into the clutch shaft, and run the nut down and keep turning it, using a wrench, till the shaft pops free. Then remove the rig and pull shaft rest of way by hand.
These tips and many others are on this site, to be found using the Search box. Also check out the Townsendimports web site, Saabmaster page, technical documents.
posted by 64.222.22...
Posts in this Thread:
Members can receive an alert when someone posts in this thread.
Post a Followup
This is a moderated bulletin board - Posting is a privilege, not a right.
Unsolicited commercial postings are not allowed (no Spam). Please, no For Sale or Wanted postings, SERIOUSLY.
Classifieds are to be listed in The Saab Network Classifieds pages.
This is a problem solving forum for over 250,000 Saab owners, so expect to see
problems discussed here even though our cars are generally very reliable. This is not an anything goes
type of forum. Saabnet.com has been a moderated forum since 1988. For usage guidelines, see the
Saabnet.com Mission and Purpose Page. Please remember that you are
not anonymous. Site Contact |
Your address is: 126.96.36.199 - Using CCBot/2.0 (http://commoncrawl.org/faq/) - Logged.
Site Members do not see red text instructions, green links, skyscraper, nor box ads.
Click here to see all
the Site Membership Benefits!