Re: Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement - Saab 900 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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Re: Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement
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Posted by S Carlson [Email] (more from S Carlson) on Fri, 17 Mar 2017 11:25:49 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement, coepercussion [Profile/Gallery] , Thu, 16 Mar 2017 19:44:49
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I did this on my '86 N/A which also came with the early style tensioner. It had about 175,000 miles on it when I changed tensioners. I did the writeup you may have seen on the old-style versus new-style tensioner on the other website. I was having the same symptoms as you. I did not check tensioner extension. I did inspect the sprockets, which showed little to no wear, I just swapped tensioners, then drove the car another 50,000 miles before I sold it. It is still going.

The tensioner extension may be unreliable as a method for determining chain wear on cars that have been driven for a long time with a rattling timing chain, because the chain guide that the tensioner pushes against may be grooved due to "slapping around" while the engine is at idle and the chain is rattling. This would mean the chain is sitting deeper in the guide and not actually stretched even though the tensioner might be extended more.

When you install the tensioner, make sure when you pull the pin to release the tension, that the tensioner actually extends out. It's nice to do this with the valve cover off to see things more clearly.

A word on tools: make sure you have a socket deep enough to install the new tensioner. You need a deep one for that. I'm not sure anymore if the new tensioner is the same hex size as the old one, but it is just a bolt head whereas the new tensioner has a massive head above the hex. This was a problem for me: I thought I had the right socket, got the old tensioner out, then had to bicycle to the store to buy a deep socket to install the new one.

When you take off the compressor, just put it up on the windshield without disconnecting it.

When/if you change the top guide pad, be prepared for a fight, which might involve cutting/ripping to get it out. It's gonna be hard as a rock. The new one can probably be bent to squirm into place.

Fitting a new valve cover gasket is semi-mandatory. Make sure you have the right one (non-attached half-moon plugs for cam holes). It may seem a little small, but it will smush in place. Put RTV or petroleum jelly if you're a purist, in small amounts to hold the gasket in place as you put the valve cover on. I also used dental floss around the gasket through the bolt holes to keep it in place. It was tricky. If you mess it up and tighten the valve cover down while the gasket is not in its groove, you will ruin the gasket.

Finally, when/if you take off the valve cover, don't mess with the overhead oiler tubes unless you have lifter noise. It's not worth it. If you muck with them, they will break. Otherwise, they are fine and usually seal well even with their old hardened original o-rings.

posted by 65.112.10...


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