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Re: It's alive!
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Posted by JerseySaab [Email] (#666) [Profile/Gallery] (more from JerseySaab) on Mon, 14 Aug 2017 15:00:31 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: It's alive!, cgwiz [Profile/Gallery] , Mon, 14 Aug 2017 09:59:48
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The used trans is supposed to only have about 95,000 miles on it, but you never really know what you're getting with junkyard parts.

For anyone contemplating doing this be aware that it is a very big job, especially working outside with the car on jackstands. (If you're an old guy with arthritis and bad knees it's even worse!)

I did not take a lot of pictures, but used a couple of guides found online. This one at saab9000.com is for R&R of the manual transmission, but that's 90% the same job as the automatic. It is profusely illustrated with photos: http://www.saab9000.com/procedures/powertrain/mantransmission/replace.php. I also found this guide specific to the automatic transmission: https://dudes.berrydejager.com/replacement-of-the-automatic-gearbox.

Some notes for anyone else thinking of (or crazy enough?) to do this...

You'll want to make sure the car is stably supported. I used 6-ton jack stands that hardly had to be extended to get enough height to do the work. (The supports were just one notch up.) The stands were placed at the jacking points.

You need to drop the catalytic converter down to gain access to the lower transmission bolts. I disconnected the downpipe at the turbo and replaced the original nuts with stainless steel on reassembly.

You can access the flex plate bolts either by removing the starter or removing the dust cover on the bottom of the trans. Both locations have a cutout where you can fit a thin-wall socket. I did not realize bottom access was an option initially and used a crazy assemblage of wobble extensions to snake into the starter area to remove the bolts. (I reinstalled the bolts from the bottom, using Loctite.)

It really helped to bag and tag the fasteners as they were removed. Despite doing this I still managed to misplace a few. Bolts were cleaned up using a bench grinder wire wheel, and coated with antiseize before being reinstalled.

It was very helpful to have a shop crane. Although you can't use it for removal or installation the crane made it much easier to move the transmissions around. (I picked up a 1-ton crane at Harbor Freight on sale for $100.)

Before installation I installed a new torque converter seal. Since a leak here would mean having to pull the trans again I did not want to take any chances. I filled the converter before putting it back in. A new filter was also installed and the trans filled with fresh Dex/Merc fluid.

A hydraulic motorcycle jack was used to do the actual removal of the old trans and installation of the "new" one. The bottom of the transmission is quite uneven which makes it difficult to line it up for installation. I used various pieces of wood as shims to do this. A couple of metric threaded rods used as guide pins made installation much easier.

I did take a few pics. Here is the trans being plucked out of the station wagon that was used to pick it up from the junkyard:



Here's the engine support beam I made to hold everything up while the subframe was apart. It's a 4x4 with pieces of 2x4 attached at the ends with lag bolts and a large threaded eye hook to support the engine:



Here's the subframe dropped (yes, that's a very rusty fender!):



Here's the replacement transmission being lowered onto the motorcycle jack for installation, with a comealong used to hold the strut out of the way:



This was a job and a half, I tell you what...

->Posting last edited on Mon, 14 Aug 2017 17:55:10.
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