Re: Good info on speedometer working -testing transducer - Saabnet.com Bulletin Board


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Re: Good info on speedometer working -testing transducer
Posted by Rociero [Email] (#1324) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Rociero) on Wed, 7 Nov 2018 21:30:07

In Reply to: Good info on speedometer working -testing transducer, mgwinaz, Wed, 7 Nov 2018 06:30:50
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Yes, you can test it with a Voltmeter set in AC volt (not DC). The output current from the Transducer is AC from 0-5 volts depending how fast the Transducer is spinning. Dou you have a wiring diagram for your car? Hook-up the Voltmeter to the 2 wire connector that connect behind the Speedo to take the AC voltage reading (Black Wire is Positive and White wire is Negative) and see if you are getting any AC voltage up to those 2 wires providing the Transducer is in good working order. While the drill is spinning, move all the wire around to see if it affects the Voltage reading. If no voltage is supplied to the 2 wire connecter, you need to read the wires from the Transducer connector all the way to the Speedo connector and see where is the short.

Do you know that between the Transducer and the Speedo, there´s another connector that the 2 wires goes through? Is a 10 pin connector (H10-13) on the driver side behind the firewall. Find the connectors (there´s about 3 of them) has the Black wire going through pin 10 and the White wire going through Pin 9. Taka an OHMmeter reading form those pins to the connector of the Transducer and again to the Speedo 2 wire connector.

You can measure the 3 wire connector behind the Speedo also. Pin 1 is Battery voltage (with Ignition On), Pin 2 is informative to various ECU, and Pin 3 is ground. If either Pin 1 (Voltage from Ignition +15 through J19 crimped connection) or Pin 3 (Ground from G8) are not suppling correctly, the Speedo won´t work either (again, providing you know for sure your speedo is in good working order). It must have Battery voltage at Pin 1 and a good Ground to Pin 3.

What I have done is remove the Transducer from the Transmission. Hooked the Transducer back to the connector again. Put a drill to the Transducer, turn the Ignition On and with the help of another person or a mirror, turn on the Drill and watch if the Speedo on the cluster moved. In my case, I found it didn´t. I had another spare Speedo and hooked up both connector (2 wire and the 3 wire) to my spare Speedo (with out removing the whole cluster, just the connectors) and my spare Speedo did work while the drill was turning. Hooked up the connectors again to the speedo on the Cluster to make sure, and didn´t work. Now I knew it was my speedo on the cluster and replaced it with the spare. Removing the cluster is no fun. Luckily the spare Speedo mileage had about 20,000 more miles. It worked for a while and one day it quit again. Very frustrating.

However, I can´t find why does it stop working one time and work another time. Sometime it won´t work from the start of the engine and sometimes it works and stop after a while with the Cruise Control on. I also seen the Speedo not work from start and afer a few miles, it started to fluctuate on and off for a about 5 seconds and stop working for the rest of the trip home without Cruise Control , but just once. What is causing this to happen is what I need to find in my case. So far a total nightmare.

->Posting last edited on Wed, 7 Nov 2018 21:45:42.

_______________________________________ 1992 9000 CD 2.3 Turbo, Automatic


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