Throttle Body Transition Casting - Saab NG900 & OG9-3 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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NG900 & OG93 Bulletin Board
1994-2002 [Subscribe to Daily Digest]
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Throttle Body Transition Casting
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Posted by REM in Seattle [Email] (#4) [Profile/Gallery] (more from REM in Seattle) on Wed, 12 Jan 2005 21:00:35 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: T-5 ECU upgrade, Ray, Wed, 12 Jan 2005 08:14:32
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The TBTC is found on the 1994-1998 NG900 and the 1999 9-3. Here is what needs to be done.

SMOOTHING/PORTING THE THROTTLE BODY TRANSITION CASTING ON THE NG900.
By Rob Mustard (aka REM in Seattle)
Search word: rem_mod
Last updated – April 22, 2002

PREMISE
As first pointed out by Dean on The Saabnet BB, the throttle body transition casting has a pronounced 3/16” lip where it meets the intercooler outlet tube and a small lip again where casting slips into the throttle body. Additionally, the interior of the casting may be quite rough. These mismatched transitions and casting ridges are an easy place to reduce the restriction in the intake system by smoothing or porting the throttle body transition casting. The idea is to make the transition casting ID match the inlet tube ID on the one end and the throttle body ID on the other end, and to smooth out any rough spots in between. The following is the procedure I used to remove the intake restriction caused by the throttle body transition casting.

INSTRUCTIONS
First I removed the throttle body transition casting from the engine. Be sure to cover the throttle body with a cloth or plastic bag to prevent anything from getting into the intake. Remove the O-ring and sensor prior to porting the throttle body transition casting. I used an engine porting kit, Item #46056, about $30 from the Eastwood Company (http://www.eastwoodco.com). It consists of a couple of 1/8" dia. spindles that accept 'cartridge rolls' of sandpaper. I used a 3/8" electric drill to drive the spindle. I started with 80 grit sandpaper and finished with 240 grit sandpaper. I don't know how many 'cartridge rolls' came with the kit. I borrowed the kit from a neighbor and he had purchased extra 'cartridge rolls'. A 1” or 1.5” drum sander mounted on an electric drill also works very well. The job took about 1-2 hours with a couple breaks along the way. A vise, or Stanley Workmate, to hold the casting is a big help. In the end, the throttle body transition casting made a smooth, step less transition from the intercooler outlet tube and to the throttle body.

Thoroughly wash and dry the throttle body transition casting using soap and water prior to re-installing it. Lubricate the o-ring with a little silicone grease (dielectric grease), and then reinstall the o-ring and the sensor. This would be a good time to clean the throttle body and apply some good lubricant to the accelerator cables and linkage.

Next I removed the intercooler inlet and outlet tubes. I needed the car on ramps to reach the hose clamps on the intercooler inlet tube. I wanted to remove the insulation from the inlet tube to further reduce the airflow restrictions. This insulation is sometimes called the ‘silencer’. The ‘silencer’ is a black perforated plastic piece wrapped with fiberglass insulation. It is installed inside the intercooler inlet tube directly after the turbocharger on all 1994-1998 Saab 900 turbos and on some 1999 9-3. According to some sources, the insulation is designed to reduce the amount of heat the intake air absorbs from the turbocharger and exhaust manifold. It may also be intended to reduce the ‘whine’ noise from the turbocharger. Remove the ‘silencer’ by grabbing it with a pair of needle-nose pliers and pulling it out of the intercooler tube. The ‘silencer’ is destroyed in the process. Mine tore into a few pieces as it came out.

I then wrapped the intercooler tubes, both the inlet (lower) tube and the outlet (upper) tube, with Thermo-Tec Thermo Shield high temperature reflective insulation (http://www.thermotec.com). A foil faced fiberglass duct or pipe insulation could also be used for this application. I cleaned the tubing first with lacquer thinner inside and out. Insulating the tubes will reduce the amount of heat the intake air absorbs from the turbocharger, exhaust manifold, and engine compartment. Insulating the intercooler tubes took about a 1-½ hours.

You probably don’t want to use silicone grease on the rubber coupler or the ends of the intercooler tubing, as it might allow the tubing to slip out of the coupling when under pressure. If the fit is too tight, then a little soapy water on the ends of the intercooler tubes will help to slip them back into the rubber fittings. Be sure the tubing is properly seated and the clamps are tight, as the turbo pressure will be trying to blow the tubing out of the joints. If one does pop off, be very careful putting it back as the turbo and exhaust get very hot very quickly.

CONCLUSION
With the throttle body transition cleaned-up etc., my seat of the pants performance evaluation shows that the car has a much smoother accelerator response and a smoother idle. Turbo spool-up time seems to be faster as well.

_______________________________________ REM in Seattle Current: 2013 Volvo XC60 R-Design, Rebel Blue, 3.0L 6-cyl turbo, Automatic 2024 MINI Cooper S Convertible, 2.0L 4-cyl turbo, 6-speed manual Former: 2005 Saab 9-3 Aero Convertible, Steel Gray metallic, 2.0L 4-cyl turbo, 5-speed 1998 Saab 900SET 5-door, Silver, 2.0L 4-cyl turbo, Automatic 1991 Alfa Romeo Spider convertible, Alfa Red, 2.0L 4-cyl, 5-speed 1984 Saab 900T 3-door, Red, 2.0L 4-cyl turbo, 5-speed


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