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BTW, Tread Depth
Posted by Tim (more from Tim) on Wed, 14 Mar 2012 13:42:07
In Reply to: How does that have thing to do with tire arrangement?, Tim, Wed, 14 Mar 2012 13:21:53
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has little to do with traction per se unless we are talking about tires with outer layer coating, like certain types of snow tires with microscopic sipes or tires with silicate microscopoic "teeth" that bite into ice. In that case, the new tires (still having the coating) should be on the driving wheel for mobility (and consequent risk of having you stuck farther away from home; the natural consequence of driving away from home). At speeds high enough to spin your car, neither the sipes nor the microscopic teeth would help you much; good luck, or slow down to enhance your luck.
For most of the tread depth, the difference between tread depths is in resistance to hydro-planing. That's why I always straighten up and slow down before hitting a puddle, and always slow down when any steering angle is needed in heavy rain . . . regardless what tires I'm using and which ones are in the front vs. back. If you encounter a situation where the front wheels are not hydroplaning but the rear wheels are, the solution is to add gas to keep the car pointed forward, then SLOW DOWN when you are past the puddle/lake, and pray that your engine is not hydrolocked.
posted by 75.67.1...
Posts in this Thread:
- Two good tires, two bad ones. What to do?, bender , Tue, 13 Mar 2012 19:02:57
- If you are wearing them out as shortly as 1.5years, Tim, Wed, 14 Mar 2012 09:15:12
- Re: Two good tires, two bad ones. What to do?, JimBlake , Wed, 14 Mar 2012 08:52:31
- You never said you couldn't afford them! Just get the, nicknick , Tue, 13 Mar 2012 23:21:30
- Re: Two good tires, two bad ones. What to do?, Simon S, Tue, 13 Mar 2012 21:19:58
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