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changing oil would you do this ? 1 Members Like This Post! (Members Can Like Posts)

Posted by neil dale [Email] (#2111) [Profile/Gallery] (more from neil dale) on Mon, 22 Jul 2019 13:52:44 Share Post by Email
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(shared fr my bro jack )

A friend had this conversation w/ someone and sent it to me ! i found it looking in my old emails food for thought ! do you do this when you change your oil ?

Don't forget to drain the old oil from the oil cooler each service. Close to 1 liter of oil hides in there.

Q .Seems a good idea, how do you accomplish that additional oil drain? A First remove the plastic undertray. Then there are 2x10mm bolts that hold the oil cooler in place. Once unbolted, it will drop down easily, then there is another 10mm nut that holds the 2 push fittings in place. Simply remove and pull the push fittings out. Take it slow doing this, there are 2 O-Rings that you don't want to damage, and they're probably not lubricated...

A.

Once removed simply drain the oil out of the cooler and feed lines. Before reinstalling it, you must fill the cooler up with oil. Then to prime the engine remove the coils and plugs and turn the engine over. Will take 20+ seconds to prime (it's primed when the oil light goes out.) Reinstall the plugs and coils. Start the engine with a fully primed oil system.

Q

wowo thx for the answer ! that is a LOT of extra work ! do you do this every oil change ? if this is really necessary, advisable,? I wonder if one couldn't put a drain valve, or bolt in the lowest point of the lines w/ a corresponding handy hole in the plastic cover and a plug! I think the oil pump and system would have sufficient pressure to prime, fill the cooler wouldn't it ? is it restricted by a thermostat that only opens when hot

A.

I do it every oil change, given you have to wait for the sump to drain, this may add 5-10 minutes to the whole operation. Since the sump is only 4L. If you don't drain the oil cooler, 20% of the oil left in circulation after each change is old oil. I personally believe that this is a significant contributing factor to the sludge issues (that compound with the other known issues.)

I believe it is full flow, but it may be thermostat controlled. however I don;t want to risk air going through my engine whilst under load, priming the oil system s always good practice (do it in ​all my cars.)

A full oil change (including cooler) is 5L. Oil stays translucent for close to 2500kms doing this. If not it turns black very quickly.

​So, how about the idea ? put a drain valve in the system ! AND will the system self-prime ? how can we easily prevent the engine starting whilst turning it over to prime the oil system ? THX! Jack

->Posting last edited on Mon, 22 Jul 2019 13:53:19.

_______________________________________ viggen02


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