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Clutch problem - not fully releasing. Posted by Trogdor42 [Email]  (#2494) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Trogdor42) on Thu, 21 Mar 2019 14:47:39
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Well the good news is the '73 V4 is now running like a champ. It was a little clattery after I set the exhaust valve lash and brought the compression back up, but a quick run at the intake valves took care of that. The Mark Ten CDI suggested by Dick Rugge is a fantastic idea and I'm very impressed with how quickly she starts now. The idle hangs right around 550 and is as smooth as I've encountered in one of these engines, and I set the static timing the way you've all mentioned, cranking the engine by hand and using the mark on the distributor rim...brilliant. Even the switch to the Weber ICT 34 and Ashcraft-built intake went as easily as I could have hoped for. As it turns out, the previous owner had some thermostat problems and decided to solve them by popping the cork (literally) out of the center and just leaving an empty ring, but with the stat that came in the new intake she hangs just under the N. In other words, thanks again for all of your help so far.
So now...the transaxle. She shifts well and goes in and out of freewheel fine, but - and it's a big "but" - the clutch won't fully disengage. It's a problem I've seen mentioned here several times and with several different solutions. The one thing they all have in common seems to be that rebuilding the clutch slave and master doesn't do a thing to help. I'm pretty sure mine are in fine shape anyway, given that there's no fluid leaking anywhere. There could be a bad seal at the front of the master, I suppose, but it seems to me if that were the case it would get progressively worse with the clutch held down and it doesn't. What I have to do is, as I'm coming to a stop, slide her into first with the clutch all the way down and wait for the light to change. I can hear the clutch just barely brushing the flywheel, and when the engine gets fully warm it'll actually move forward slightly on level ground. It's not enough to stall the engine even at idle, but I want my clutch to work properly. I've also already set the clutch free play as close to 4mm as I can, so that's not the problem.
I got an email from one previous poster with a similar issue who said his problem was just a faulty clutch disc. Another one of you mentioned the bolt holes on the throwout bearing being worn from round to oval. I also noticed in the shop manual that the clutch release levers (forks) are a wear item that can fatigue over time. If one or more of mine are bent or broken that would certainly explain the problem. So my question is this:
First, any guidance as to what's the most likely cause? Second, is there a good way to diagnose which one of these things (or something else entirely) is definitely responsible so I don't end up just throwing parts at the problem. And third, do I even mess with the hydraulics or do I just resign myself to pulling the engine and playing with the clutch, pressure plate and release assembly?
Thanks guys. Looking forward to your advice.
_______________________________________ "The sky's the limit, this time I'm switching to glide." -The Kings
, Thu, 21 Mar 2019 14:47:39 <-- Viewing This Message
, Sun, 24 Mar 2019 10:59:18, Sun, 24 Mar 2019 14:32:28, Mon, 25 Mar 2019 05:22:02, Sun, 24 Mar 2019 13:26:53, Sun, 24 Mar 2019 18:12:36, Mon, 25 Mar 2019 05:19:04, Sun, 24 Mar 2019 04:33:21, Fri, 31 May 2019 14:53:45, Fri, 28 Jun 2019 06:37:18
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