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E-euOregon-Parts: Heater Valve Bypass Kit Posted by thewheell22 [Email] (#2450) [Profile/Gallery] (more from thewheell22) on Sun, 3 Feb 2019 17:10:08 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
My '02 ARC Wagon stopped blowing heat. I'd also noted the engine temp gauge never got above the 8 O'clock position and the radiator fan rarely came on. No codes when calibrating the ACC and my Tech-2 didn't help EXCEPT it showed running engine temp 167*, 30* below expected. Seemed straight forward enough so I changed the Thermostat (man, That's a whole 'nother thread).
STILL no heat, but the running engine temp was back to 190*+ as it should be. The blend-door repair was done last year (has nothing to do with coolant flow), Bypass Valve was replaced 2 yrs ago due to a leak so wasn't thinking about that. Exposed the heater core and checked in and out pipes at running temp with my temp gun and they were the same (in the future I'll do this on a cold engine quickly before they equilibrate due to proximity).
OK, maybe the core needs to be back flushed, seemed straight forward...not for this DIY'r! I found flow diagrams that were generic or showed core in and out horizontally instead of vertically and none traced it thru the recirc pump (not avail on 4cyl models) to the valve, thru the core and engine return. Finally figure that out, flush the core, nothing dramatic and while I have the valve out vacuum test it and it moves. Put it all back together and STILL NO HEAT!
Back to WIS and stumble on a Tech Bulletin for my year to find they changed the ACC control module and missed programing a fault code if the Bypass Valve Solenoid fails. Take it all apart again, check ohms in the solenoid and got 30+. No internal short right? Now I've had it. I took the &%$# valve out and NOW HEAT! I won't wring my hands about the imperceptible temp diff with AC. And with the beautiful aerodynamic design of these cars they still have 4-on-the-doors cooling with minimal wind noise or mussed hair!
Here's how I did it, and for those (few?) that may be as flummoxed as I was, the direction of flow goes:
Circ pump(not avail on 4cyl): -->In: bottom port-->Out: side port-->Heater Valve: -->In: single side port-->Out direct to Htr-core(in usaul position): Top side port--->Heater core In: Top port-->Heater core Out: Bottom port---> back to engine circ. Bypass valve bottom side port returns flow to engine circ, when activated, at the Y coming out of the core's bottom port.
Here's the kit, before and after. I kept the solenoid plugged in and capped all vacuum ports.
I now have heat, and easy access for future coolant flushing! These are 3/4" irrigation tubing fittings with pipe thread I had on hand. You can buy them with hose thread for easy flush attachment.
I hope this helps someone and Happy Motoring!:)
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