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Replaced starter in '06 SC . . . . not so bad a job  2 Saabers Like This Post!
Posted by Mark in Marine [Email]  (#1837) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Mark in Marine) on Fri, 29 Nov 2019 19:32:44
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This is just a 'Thank you' to the board members who share their experiences, tips, and moral support. You can skip the narrative if you want only my quick tips and observed results.
My older daughter just returned from her honeymoon, and her 2006 SC gave her a no-crank, no-start. A simple jump with the battery in place did not seem to work (I was not present, just what I was told). My new son-in-law got a new battery - but the store thought old the battery wasn't bad enough to give him the prorated warranty for the 27 month old battery. With the new battery, the car started and ran okay, but that car has been slow-cranking ever since we bought it. When it was 'new to us', I installed a new positive cable (left on my shelf from a previous 9-5) in hopes of changing that, but it didn't change the slow cranking.
I'm handing off car responsibilities to my son-in-law, and yesterday morning before Thanksgiving dinner we put snow tires onto my daughter's car and changed the oil & filter. Then I replaced the starter motor, which might not have been absolutely necessary, but was good for my peace of mind.
I'm not real fast, my garage is unheated, and I wasted too much time on just reinstalling the 10mm nut for the solenoid energizing lead. But it still only took about 1.5 hours, and it gave me a good chance to see that the oil pressure switch was leak-free and that the PCV oil trap O-ring to the block IS leaking =(. That will have to wait for Spring warmth.
Tip: Start by removing the battery, battery tray, and the rigid brake vacuum hose. Removing the vacuum hose prevents you from breaking it while undoing the upper starter motor bolt (18mm head) screwed into the starter from the bell housing (the bottom flange of the starter motor is held by a 16mm nut on a stud in the bell housing). The bolt loosens from the above, the nut from below - but remove the nuts for the starter power lead and the solenoid lead before removing the starter. Under the battery tray is a 13mm head bolt that secures the positive battery cable to the transmission housing - removing this bolt gives enough slack so you can slip the positive cable eye-connector off of the starter stud before removing the starter. The vacuum hose, battery, and tray go back into place so quickly that it saves time to remove them.
Observation: The re-man Bosch starter handily out-cranks the 150K-mile-old Mitsubishi unit. Glad I took the time - and the re-man Bosch starter was about $76 plus core, shipping, and tax.
, Fri, 29 Nov 2019 19:32:44 <-- Viewing This Message
2
, Sat, 30 Nov 2019 17:16:23, Sun, 1 Dec 2019 13:02:32
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