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Re: Dead battery, white puddle under car.
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Posted by Saana88 [Email] (#207) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Saana88) on Sat, 15 Jan 2005 07:50:16 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Dead battery, white puddle under car., Mitch [Profile/Gallery] , Sat, 15 Jan 2005 06:55:53
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I've had great luck with Interstate batteries. Case and point: the one in my car is six and a half years old and has lasted me through the last four cars.
If that puddle is acid:
1. DON'T TOUCH IT
2. Get it off your driveway. Roll the car away from the puddle without getting the tires in it, then rinse slowly with water.
3. Using thick gloves, remove the suspect battery from your car. Rinse the fender area with water also. Prepare to see less paint in locations where the paint was fine.

It's possible the shop that "tested" your alternator and battery just filled the battery up with too much water and it overflowed. Or perhaps your battery froze or partially froze forcing solution out. Either way, a new battery is cheap insurance when stuff like that is going on.
I would also have someone else have a look at your alternator brushes/regulator. Make sure the brushes are long enough. I think the spec is 4-5 millimeters. If this is out of spec the alternator will not charge the battery. There will also be a small wire with a plastic connector-cover on it that you should ensure is still connected to the alternator. This light controls the warning light on the dash if I recall correctly. It is easily knocked off at oil changes. If it's off your car will still run for a while just fine (although the battery capacity is being used up) and then things go dead.
Fortunately, for you, alternator regulator/brush assemblies are replaceable and available from site sponsors. Saab wants $55 for it, the sponsors will sell you the same Bosch regulator for $22 I think.
If that puddle o' stuff is battery acid, the battery will still test okay if:
1. The battery was overfilled and is fine now
2. Whoever tested your battery didn't load it and just pulled the terminals and hooked a voltmeter across it, read 12.6 volts, and said it's okay. Batteries die with 12 volts still but are unable to handle the current load, measured in amperes. You can do your own load test, assuming you have a meter. Turn on the headlights without the engine running for a minute. Then disconnect the negative terminal and read. If the battery still cranks out over 12.6 volts, you're okay there. (These are temperature-dependent tests, mind you.)
My theory is that first, the alternator warning light wire is disconnected, second, the battery is dying due to extreme temperature changes or the wrong fluid level or worn out alternator brushes, and third, whoever tested your alternator didn't and instead overfilled your battery liquid.
Just guesses though.

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