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Re: water in oil: advice, anecdote, long (I blame beer)
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Posted by CMyles [Email] (#1126) [Profile/Gallery] (more from CMyles) on Sun, 6 Jan 2008 10:23:26 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: water in oil, ocn, Sun, 6 Jan 2008 09:29:00
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ocn,
Don't want to be the bad guy here but there's a few other things to look for on a head that may have been overheated. Look for cracks between the 2 exhaust valves or 2 intake valves of each cylinder. Unfortunately it's (currently) cheaper to find a good used head than to get those welded and ground and have new seats installed (at least around here) but I'd save the old head because someday it may be the other way around and then you'll have a core that someone wants (me). Warped heads can be heated and flattened (and then re-machined) or, if the warp is very minor, just re-surfaced (up to a point). If you don't have a precision straight edge and want to do a flatness check before taking it to the machine shop just lay the head on a bench top side up and place the cams in their cradles with a little lube on each journal. Set the caps on and run the bolts in finger tight. Now gently tighten the caps one at a time working from the center out while spinning the cam. On a straight head the cam will spin easily even with all the caps fully torqued. If you detect any increase in the amount of power needed to spin a cam as you tighten a cap then that is an indication that the head is badly warped and is trying to bend the camshaft as you tighten that cap down. If your head passes that test and has no cracks then take it to the shop for the critical inspection. A MAJOR cylinder head shop once sent me a head that must have been severely warped and evidently their fix was just to massively re-cut the mating surface and do a valve job. When I got it I could just barely turn the cams by hand, it almost required a wrench. They also removed the distributor journal cap and re-cut the valve cover mating rim(!!!) and then replaced the cap backwards. Of course they didn't bore that journal so the distributor wouldn't even begin to fit in there. I called them to see what they would do about this and the guy (who claimed to be the shop foreman) said that I should loosen the tamper proof dist. cap screws, install the dist. and then tighten them as I set the ig. timing, (all with the valve cover off I guess). I demanded and got a refund. I won't say who it was but they are in Texas and they do a lot of "cylinder heads" and claim to be "international". Moral: If you need a replacement head get a good one from a local or Saab specific salvage yard and inspect it carefully while on the bench. I'd rather buy a salvage head that needs a little valve work or minor cut of the mating surface than get one mail order that's been ruined by bad machinists. Good luck, we're all counting on you. (seen "Airplane" too many times I guess).

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