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Re: Irrigating the Carpets - Major Test Sunday Posted by EverettDave [Email] (#1894) [Profile/Gallery] (more from EverettDave) on Sun, 7 Nov 2010 23:47:44 In Reply to: Re: Irrigating the Carpets, Justin VanAbrahams [Profile/Gallery] , Sun, 7 Nov 2010 12:35:12 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Used this perfect crisp and dry fall Everett day to spend a couple hours testing for my coolant leak source. Read all old posts on HCV last night and I so appreciate the great ideas everyone has suggested.
So, I ran in place to full operating temp, with speaker grille out, carpets behind pedals pulled away, and using the suggested flachlight thru the windahield method, I found-
1) My valve is black plastic, it is dry with no coolant to be seen on top, but it does show a small white trail of sediment from the valve on top, which is also old and dry.
2) No wet coolant trail seen below the valve behind the carpets. Cannot see the trail from valve to floor carpets, but I know it exists.
3) At full operating temp, system pressurized, normal on gage, and fans cycling, a small green trail starts from the upper heater hose at valve connection. it runs straight down that oblong rubber air seal to the bottom and then passes through into the cabin at the metal firewall.
I still see no trail on the interior of the firewall. If I close the valve ( heat off) the seapage increases slightly.
My conclusion now, before removing the hoses for inspecttion, is that the upper heater valve hose nipple has cracked or failed, OR coolant is escaping past the hose clamp due to a failing hose. I am almost certain this is not a core issue, since the carpets have been wet for two weeks ans yet the interior glass is not fogging at all. Also no odor.
Next step is examine the heater valve nipples on the engine side. Too hot to do that after the test. I may not be lucky enough to get away with merely replacing those $9 hoses, and the nipple may be too far gone to escape replacing the valve. We shall see.
My questions:
1) If the valve in my '89 is black plastic, is that likely a Scantech replacement? Was the OEM '89 valve metal? Did Saab ever install plastic heater valves at the factory? I bought this SPG at 96,000 miles.
2) Many complaints in 2008/2009 regarding Scantech heater valves. Have all those issues been rectifed by now? Is the current Scantech stock solid and long lasting? Do I need to add the valve seal retaining clip as some have suggested?
Thanks to all for your support.
Dave in Everett
posted by 108.17.16...
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