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Re: Setting inner driver bearing carrier shim stack height
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Posted by Cmyles [Email] (#1126) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Cmyles) on Thu, 4 Jul 2013 21:53:05 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Setting inner driver bearing carrier shim stack height, RS [Profile/Gallery] , Thu, 4 Jul 2013 17:13:20
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RS,
If I had to do what you are asking here's how I would go about it: Get another inner driver assembly and a pile of assorted shims (they were made in three thicknesses). I would oil the bearings and install the assembly with no shims and only every other bolt and tighten them gradually to 20 INCH pounds while rolling the differential. Next you measure the gap with a feeler gauge at two opposite points and figure out the average gap. Add 0.008" to that figure and make up a shim pack that thick then remove and re-install the inner driver assembly with that shim pack. Carefully tighten all six bolts to 21 FOOT pounds while rolling the differential. Periodically while tightening the bolts check that there is "some" backlash of the ring gear. If the back lash disappears completely stop tightening the bolts, we'll have to start over with either more or less shims (depending on whether you are working on the right or left side). As long as there is some backlash keep tightening the bolts until they all hit 21 Foot pounds.

Now it's time to see how close to the original setting you are and the best way to do that is with a marking compound transfer test. Paint the drive faces of the pinion gear with some toolmakers Prussian blue or some artist's oil paint of any bright color then while placing some "braking" pressure to the ring gear rotate the input shaft of the transmission (in a forward gear) so that the ring gear is driven (forward) by the pinion. Once it makes a full revolution you examine how the the pigment has transferred from the pinion to the ring gear teeth faces. Generally speaking the "contact patch" should be approximately centered between the heel and toe and the root and tip of the tooth face. More importantly it should be exactly where the shiny patch that has resulted from use is. Select a tooth that has a very clear transfer pattern showing and wipe the pigment off of the adjacent tooth so you can make a comparison. If the pigment patch corresponds exactly to that shiny wear patch then you have shimmed the inner driver assembly correctly. If the pigment patch is shifted out toward the rim of the ring gear then you have too much backlash. If the pattern is shifted in towards the toes of the teeth (the center of the gear) then you need more backlash. Since you haven't changed the pinion position those two possible pattern shifts should be your only concern. You can measure the backlash with a dial indicator clamped to the unit but since there is an acceptable range of backlash and you don't know what the original dimension was that technique will only get you close. The pigment transfer technique will potentially allow you to get it right back to where it was.
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