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Re: 9000 griffin
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Posted by soneway (more from soneway) on Sat, 18 Feb 2006 18:22:12 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: 9000 griffin, ray, Sat, 18 Feb 2006 17:24:07
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hi, the 1992 9000 Griffin is exactly like the 1992 9000CDT auto with a couple of cosmetic differences. not knocking the car, it's just what the differences are. So, when you are a) looking for past history of good and bad and b) looking for parts and procedures, you can expand your search!

the main diffs in the two are: griffin has diff wheels, two tone leather seats, 6cd changer standard (optional on other), nice series number on the dash, when new you got a little special treatment on loaner car and towing. maybe something else but that mostly covers it.

I have 2 1992 9000CDT auto's, plus another one with blown auto as a parts car.

typical known issues with the series are: 1)auto trans issues, 2) throttle body - Limp Home mode (aka LHM) issues, 3) ignition DI failures, 4) heater core & blower fan leaks/failures 5) rear shocks are Nivomats. they are self leveling and expensive to replace. uses softer springs. great when they work, expensive to replace with like. I purchased springs off a 1992 non turbo and bilsteins for the used one.

these are the main ones, could be other smaller ones.

check to see if the auto has be replace or at very least serviced well (my purchased new got replaced under warranty, the used purchase had been done too!).

See if the throttle body or other items in the accelerator have been replaced.

Look at the DI (big red thing on top of the engine) and see if it has a white connector on the right side with a cable with a black release plugged into it. That's the newer version. 92's came with a direct wired unit, so this means that 1) it's been replaced and 2) you can replace more easily aka DIY if needed in the future.

See if the heater works (also the A/C as this is an R-12 car - if it has been upgraded to R-134 make *sure* it works and gets *cold* - some did an incomplete upgrade to R-134 and it doesn't work - easy to determine if done 1) should be a sticker that it was done 2) look at the compressor, one of the two colored caps off, if R-12 it will look like a tire air valve with a pin in the middle, R-134 does not have the pin...). See if the carpet at the front passenger has strange stains or colors in it. When the heat exchanger radiator leaks it goes into that carpet. Does it feel clean to the touch or slimey? Also test defroster in the front, should not put slimey stuff on the inside on the window.

bounce the rear up and down to see if the shocks stop the car as they should. if a nivomat fails you get either no dampening at all *OR* it gets completely stuck and allows no movement at all. about $400 each to replace. or, you can go to a junkyard and the the rear springs from just about any 1990-1995 or so that does not have nivomats and then put regular springs in. then new shocks. just use the settings for a 9000 non turbo for shocks. If someone has *not* replaced the springs but has put non turbo type shocks in you will be a major lowrider and will have problems with tires hitting bump stops with four adults in the car.


Not trying to scare you away, just the stuff that is known to happen.

I have 260K on my purchased new in 1992, and put 40K on my used purchased with 117k in 2002 car. take care of it and you should be very happy. very fast car.
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