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After Tests: Still runs rough…no power. Help plz(!!!)
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Posted by '90-9k-stef [Email] (more from '90-9k-stef) on Fri, 4 Jan 2002 03:49:18 Share Post by Email
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Short recap: my '90 9kCD turbo started idling rough and would not rev up above 2000RPM following my return from being away for over 2mos. After I came back, at first it started and run fine, however the 'check engine' light flickered a couple of times and it transiently hesitated. I didn't drive much - was only reparking it. Two days after my return I had some front end work done at a body shop (new bumper and left fender) and on the way home the car started losing all its power. Interestingly, it runs perfectly for about 1/2 mile after resetting the ECU thru battery disconnection. Following that 1/2 mile, it seems to not have enough fuel - it just sort of chokes... with occasional momentary burst of power after I work the accelerator.

Work done so far:
-Changed the fuel filter (it was left with little gas when I was gone)
-checked DI: has good sparks on all four new BCPR7ES plugs (& DI is <2yrs)
-inspected all vacuum lines: everything intact including charcoal canister
-Followng Ari, Anders and Streets's advice I run tests on the AMM unit,
It seems good:
The voltage on pin 3 is 2.4 at idle and it rises to over 4V when I rev
the engine up (requires famous battery disconnect to get it to go way up).
However, with the filter-end of the AMM removed and tilted up, I could
not see the the burn-off cycle after the engine is switched off.
-O2 sensor tests were weird - the sensor is probably shot, but the previous consensus was that it wouldn't affect the power of the car so much. Here are the results: On restarting the previously warmed up engine, the initial black wire-to-ground voltage is about 5V! and it slowly, over one minute, falls to about 0.28V, where it stays without the expected fluctuations from .2 to .8 volts. The testing was done with an electronic readout Voltmeter. The suply voltage between white heater wires was the expected 13.8V.

I'm at a loss... could one bad oxygen sensor create all this havoc? Is it possible that the AMM is bad despite ok pin voltages? (pin 3: ~2.4V-~4.0V pins 1,2,4 - 0.7V, pin 5 -13.8V). Is it possible that the turbo or perhaps the catalytic converter is partially blocked? I hope that there are some other things I overlooked that will be brought out here!

I eliminated the fuel pump or the fuel supply system because the engine works fine for a short while after the ECU resetting. Greetings to all.

posted by 12.228....
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