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Posted by gorper (more from gorper) on Thu, 2 Sep 2004 19:17:06 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Weight Jackers, gorper, Thu, 2 Sep 2004 10:48:28
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Go to the link below to look at a catalog of stock car parts; this is a big .pdf file. Here are the part numbers:

Weight Jack Bolt 001-300-8
(The bronze-ish yellow bolt in the picture)

Weight Jack Plate 001-301
(The thin, black rim of metal situated at the bottom of the round metal disk screwed on to the jack bolt in the picture)

Upper Spring Cup 001-304
(The shiny, round black piece in the picture, next to the jack bolt)

You also need two stock Saab 900 front spring bump stops. These are the cone-shaped deals located inside the springs. Finally, you need some steel pipe approx. 5-inch in diameter. I also did adjustable rear perches based on some pre-made deals I bought from the stock car race shop. When I cut them down to size, I had some extra pipe, which happens to be the correct diameter.

If you look at the picture, you'll see an approximately 1-inch weld at the base of the disk on the jack bolt. That weld holds a thin cross-section of steel pipe to both the jack plate below it and the cone-shaped piece above. As you can see, I've cut off the majority of the cone; there's only about 3/4" of it left; the steel pipe is also 3/4". DO NOT cut it to this dimension -- remember how I said I have to re-weld? Well, that's the reason -- 3/4" is too long and the car sits too high in front.

So, to summarize, you use the stock bump stop bits to keep the upper spring perch in its proper position with respect to the seat molded into the car body. Then, because this seat is concave, you need to add the steel ring to clear the downward lip of the seat. I will likely need to trim this down a bit; we'll see how things go when I re-weld. Next, you have the jack plate welded to the pipe. You weld it with the threaded portion of the jack plate facing up, toward the hood.

Now, because the coolant reservoir sits right on top of the U.S. driver's side spring perch, you'll need to figure out the height you want, then cut off the top of the jack bolt. I slotted mine so I can turn it with a pry bar. You also need to cut out a small piece of metal at the reservoir mounting for the bolt to clear. No modification is necessary on the passenger side.

Having written all this, I have to say that this is the easy part. You also have to convert your lower spring perches to run a 5" spring. The 9.5x5-inch Eibach spring rated at 550# I use up front is too narrow to fit the stock perch. What you need to do is very carefully cut out the exact same amount of material on either side of the perch (see the picture -- you can tell that it's narrowed). Because the bolt hole in the middle is somewhat offset, you can't really just cut it down the middle, re-weld, re-drill, and go. Well, you can, but my assumption was that Saab offset the hole for a good reason. I used a very accurate ruler, a fine-tipped Sharpie and a 4 1/2" angle grinder with cutting wheel. Working from the exact center of the perch, I cut out about .4" on either side. I DO NOT remember the exact dimension. This is close to what I cut; if you use different springs, you may not need to cut. My measurements were based on the springs I had on hand.

When I cut, I cut with the wheel on the waste side of the metal so that my final dimensions would be perfect and perfectly straight. Now, after cutting out the strips of metal on either side of the bolt hole, I had the two curved ends with the actual spring seats and the center section remaining. I ground the edges down 45*, fit them together, and welded them up. I also welded a big bead down the back side. You may wish to add more metal to the sides; you'll see that the ultimate strength is probably not as great as stock. Your call.

OK, that's all I have time for now...

posted by 24.19.4...

http://lefthanderchassis.com/pdf/Ch4-4.pdf

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