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Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2002 20:14:43 +0200
From: "Anders Fondal" <fondisnopsamali.no>
Subject: SV: Sudden engine stop


Thanks again, a lot of helpful hints here....! I got my hands on a used distributor and coil today, changed'em, and there it is...!! So far so good, the problem's gone. Only thing that remains is adjusting timing and CO. Hoooooraaay! (Robert: p min 99GL er det t”ndningsmodul (bosch) :-)) oh by the way, I payed 50NOK (that's about £4!) for the parts! Anders Robert Brown <rjbnopsamnet.se.nospam> skrev i meldingsnyheter:3D32057A.2A6A6D64nopsamnet.se.nospam... > > > Anders Fondal wrote: > > > Hi guys > > > > I have an 83 99 GL. > > The car works just fine and have done so ever since I bought it in february, > > possible with a little too rich mixture (occasional smell of gas, and a > > somewhat low mileage pr. litre) > > > > However: It runs fine for about a kilometer or two, then it just dies on me. > > I have power and ignition, but it won't run. I wait for a minute or two, and > > it fires up like nothing happened. Then it just dies again. > > What is the ambient temperature? I know this part of the world has been getting > unusually warm weather the past few weeks (between 20C and 30C)? > > Starting the car with cold engine or warm engine (having run it a few minutes > before stopping and restarting)? > > > > > > > I have changed membrane in the carb, adjusted floater and replaced floater > > valve. (when it runs, it runs very smoothly and in my ears very nice) > > No gas smell, no sputter..... the carb's now in very good shape > > > > Could it be the timing module? or the distributor/cap? > > Don't recall that*my* 1983 99GL had a timing module ;-) Only points > (brytarespets), which, if incorrectly spaced, can cause weak spark. Look for 0,4 > mm at the widest point, or check for a dwell angle (kamaxelvinkel) of 50 deg +/- > 3 deg. But I doubt that's your problem here. > > > > > > > Any suggestions wuld be of great help, > > > > Anders > > I used to get that problem in the summertime, especially if starting the car > with a warm engine. > Seemed to be caused by vapourisation of fuel somewhere in the fuel line or > carburettor flotation tank, in my case. It would just sputter and die about > after 500 metres or so. My solution was to turn it over on the starter motor. > After 10 seconds I'd get nice cool fuel flowing through and problem would be > solved. > > Another thing you could try is to adjust the valve for flotation chamber > ventilation (ventil f–r flott–rhusventilation, see workshop manual section 2 > page 231-18). Said to (and translated from Swedish) "improve warm start > characteristics by preventing fuel vapour from getting into the system". > > And another: Check your temperature compensator (with a white plastic cover on > it, sitting on the back (firewall side) of the carburettor). The black plug on > the end of the thermometallic arm should start to move out (opening the valve) > at about 20C. Best to remove the compensator (don't drop the little rubber > gasket from the end that sticks into the carburettor), put it into water at 15C > with an accurate thermometer, then heat it up to 20-22C on the stove. My > recollection is if that valve starts to open too early, the idle speed will drop > very quickly, with the kind of symptoms that you seem to describe. My engine > could get problems from this regardless of whether it was winter or summer. > > The hint about the coil from Thomas and David sounds like the easiest first step > to diagnosing. > But if you want to try my suggestions then I can scan a couple of pages out of > the workshop manual and email to you (email me, dropping the ".nospam" from the > end of my address, if you want these pages) > > Good luck and tell us how you get on with the fix. > > Robert, > G–teborg (2001 A4, 1999 9-3, 1983 99 GL R.I.P., 1983 900 GL R.I.P.) >

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