Date: Wed, 05 May 2004 18:30:24 GMT
From: -Bob- <uctraingNOSPAMMEnospamanet.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Recommendation?


On Wed, 05 May 2004 05:11:58 GMT, meld_b <meld_bnospamo.com> wrote: >I've got some related questions.. a shop near me quoted $330/$340 for >front/back brakes (or the otherway round) I asked about just changing >pads and they said that their experience is that they'll squeel and warp >so bad that I'll be back to put rotors on. I was trying to be pro-active >and work on them before they were making a grinding noise... but their >approach seems to align with the "ain't broke don't fix" mentioned below. >It looks like a set of Brembo pads is ~$40... Maybe I should go mike my >rotors and see if they've been turned??? Unless the rotors are gouged or warped, leave them alone. You may want to check the thickness. If you like to spend money, replace them with new factory rotors without checking. >Never bled brake lines before, >I see that eeuroparts sells a tank thing for ~$45 to assist with that, >anyone used that? Bleeding is easy as long as you haven't done anything major like changing caliper. If you have two people, you don't need the kit. If you are doing it alone then you need a "one man bleeder" to do it. With two people, one person pumps the brakes, the other opens the bleed screw. When the pedal gets close to the floor, the pumper calls out and the bleeder closes the screw. It's easy. Pump again, repeat. If you are doing the pads, you should buy a quart of fluid, fill the reservoir, and bleed each brake over and over until you get clear fluid out of the bleeder. Use a hose on the bleeder and catch the fluid in a jar. Your job is really to flush the dirt and moisture out while keeping the system free of air (or removing the air if you've done major work. Get a manual if you don't have one before doing any brake work. If you tell us which mode/year, we might have some specific advice. >-meld > >Mine is a 1998 900S with 133,000 but unknown time on the brakes. > >Fred W. wrote: >> "Hatchback" <hatchback299nospamottabekidding.com> wrote in message > "If it aint broke dont fix it probably should have prevailed". >> >> >> How right you are... >> >>>Pads were down by 50% and the rotors had a decent ridge but were still >>>"true". I should have had those rotors turned and re-used. >> >> No, you should have left them alone until the pads were down to 25% or less >> and then slapped some pads on there without doing anything to the rotors. >> Just because they ahve a ridge does not mean they need to be turned. You >> only turn them if they are not running true, and then you are probably >> better off getting *good* replacement rotors, >> >> >>>The replacement >>>pads and rotors barely lasted 6K miles and were a rusty mess. These parts >>>rust every night. Every morning there is a crunchy grinding noise as the >>>pads scrub away the rust. If the car sits for 2-3 days the rust is >>>unbelievable. Good thing I use it most days for 40 - 50 miles. I tried >>>EuroRotor thinking that it was of decent quality. >> >> >> Never heard of them. Why not get some brand name manufacturer's rotors and >> pads or OEMs and start over again? Good rotor brands would be ATE, >> Zimmerman, Brembo, Balo or SAAB. Get regular solid rotors. Don't fall for >> the cross-drilled or slotted hype. It just costs you extra money and wears >> your pads faster. You don't say what car this is for, so I can't tell you >> prices. >> >> Good street pads that are cheap and almost dust free are the PBR Deluxe's. >> They are also somewhat easy on the rotors, being a softer compound, but not >> good for high performance driving such as autocross or track use. >> >> YMMV, >> -Fred W >> >>

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