Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2007 16:13:15 -0400
From: Etaoin Shrdlu <shrdlunospamlid.com>
Subject: Re: '94 9000 CSE radio replacement


On 2007-01-23 12:48:30 -0400, "dave" <alofusblountmaybenospamel.net> said: > > "Etaoin Shrdlu" <shrdlunospamlid.com> wrote in message > news:2007012223194716807-shrdlunospamlidcom... >> On 2007-01-22 13:48:01 -0400, "dave" <alofusblountmaybenospamel.net> said: >> >>> >>> "Etaoin Shrdlu" <shrdlunospamlid.net> wrote in message >>> news:2007012212284216807-shrdlunospamlidnet... >>>> Bought a new Clarion head unit for my wife's '94 9000 CSE. No local >>>> radio dealer will touch it. I'm left to fend for myself. >>>> >>>> The car has the separate CD player/equalizer mounted directly >>>> underneath. There was a marked reduction in volume when the CD player >>>> ceased to function. I'm not certain if it was the amp or CD player. >>>> >>>> Questions: >>>> >>>> 1) Should I bypass the amp? If so, is there a simpler way than running >>>> new wires? >>>> >>>> 2) Is there a wiring harness available? Metra et. al have no listings. >>>> >>>> 3) Is there a way to remove the mounting sleeves without taking apart the dash? >>>> >>>> 4) Am I stupid even to attempt this? >>>> >>>> Thanks. >>>> >>> >>> Greetings! >>> I hope you are rather handy with wiring. The very easiest way out of >>> this is, do a clean install of a new head unit of your choice. Use the >>> wiring harness adapter from Crutchfield. You will need to run speaker >>> wires from the dash or an amplifier to the rear speakers. >>> >>> 1. The Saab amplifier is a 20 watt unit fed from the round din plug >>> with 6 pins on it. The audio diminished greatly when the CD unit died >>> because the audio loops through the CD player/equalizer. Your >>> amplifier is likely ok. Having said that, get a new one and install it >>> in the place of the old one. The cable from the head unit to the Saab >>> amp has 2 shielded cables for the audio and some extra wires for >>> turning on the amp remotely, phone mute ect. If you are adventurous >>> (sp?) you can splice into the cable. I don't know if it's worth the >>> hassle or not. >>> >>> 2. Crutchfield is your friend. >>> >>> 3. The mounting sleeves come out if you squeeze the box in the middle >>> of the long side. There will be some bending. That's my experience >>> anyway. >>> >>> 4. When the wife is not happy, nobody's happy. >>> >>> dave >> >> Thanks so much, Dave. >> >> Problem is Crutchfield does not deliver to the ever-less-frozen tundra >> of Canada. They are expanding here, but mostly in home theater. I have >> to hardwire. >> >> As from what I can ascertain, this is the schematic would read: >> >> White/Blue: MEM >> Yel/Red: Power >> Black: Ground >> Brown/White: Illumination >> Green: Antenna >> Red/Green: RF >> Brown/Black: RF- >> Blue/Green: LF+ >> Gray/Black: LF- >> Red/Yellow: RR+ >> Brown/White: RR- >> Blue/Yellow: LR+ >> Gray/White: LR- >> >> Any idea is this is correct for a '94 9000 CSE? >> >> Furthermore, is there a point in buying an amp if I'm not changing the >> factory speakers at this point? I think 40 watts per channel is >> probably overkill already. Wouldn't it make more sense just to bypass >> the amp? Remember, I'm no engineer or audiophile. I'm just a lowly >> graphic cum product designer. >> >> Okay, here comes the stupid question: which side of the mounting sleeve >> is the long one? If the front of the opening is an x-y axis, am I >> applying pressure to x or y? >> >> Wife is happy as long as I supply her with a couple of martinis at days >> end and do the dishes. Seems fair to me, but I've got to get that >> Clarion out of the front hall and into that Saab. The Sirius unit is on >> it's way. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Shrdlu >> > Shrdlu, > Remove the sleeves by squeezing the long side, x-axis. Don't be shy. > The radio sleeve also has the amplifier for the front speakers. You > will see 2 Molex type plugs into the back of the sleeve for the radio. > One connector is for power, ignition switch power, panel lights, and > power antenna. The other for the front speakers. There will also be a > couple (3 maybe?), din type plugs that go to the CD player and > amplifier for the rear speakers. There are no wires to the rear > speakers that go to the radio part. The rear speakers are wired from > the amplifier. Meaning if you replace the head unit you will have to > run wires from the head unit to the rear speakers. > The power connector is wired like this: > 1) Grey Battery > 4) Red Ignition Power > 5) Black Ground! > 6) Green To Power Antenna > 8) Bn/Wh Panel lights > > The Front Speaker Connector is wired like this: > 1) Green Left Front Neg > 2) Brown Left Front Pos > 3) Red Right Front Pos > 4) Blue Right Front Neg > > If you particular car doesn't have a separate amplifier, and I'm pretty > sure it does, the speaker connector will have 4 more wires. The colors > will be the same for left and right side, the white stripe will > designate the rear speakers. > Not too bad a job, a bit fiddly tho. I hope you have a warmish garage > to do this in. You will need a good trouble light, cutters, wire > strippers, some crimp splices and electrical tape. > I am on the south shore of Lake Erie. I can't complain too much about > the weather. Yes I can, could use a few degrees warmer. > Your wife is far easier to please than mine! Good Luck. > > dave Dave, Perhaps the martinis have something to do with my wife's amenable nature. Thank you very much for the instructions. Bought a good-quality crimper the other day. I've been waiting for the warm weather to return. No garage as our house was built long before the dawn of the automobile and, I assume from postcards and old photos, the carriage house was torn down when the lot was subdivided. Next week looks promising weatherwise. I'll have to keep the gin flowing until then. Thanks again for your help. Shrdlu

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