Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 19:07:12 -0500
From: "James H. E. Maugham" <>
Subject: Re: 94 900S and rear wheel bearings

Chris Ault wrote: > > James H. E. Maugham wrote: > > > > Johan Karl Larsen wrote: > > > > > > Is it possible to ajust the rear wheel bearings on a 94 Saab 900S. It > > > looks to me that the bearings are tightened to hard. If I jack up the > > > card and give the lh wheel a hard spin it will only rotate one, at most > > > two times. The rh wheel does not have this problem, it just keeps on > > > spinning with 10-20 times less friction. > > > > The rear wheel bearings are almost exactly the same as the front wheel > > bearings in a RWD car and are adjustable. I don't have a 900 and I don't > > know what the proper torque is for the bearings but someone on the list > > should be able to help. > > > > Your description would make me change the bearings were it my car. > > No, the bearings are not "adjustable", they're not even serviceable. Pop the > sealed unit off, look at the bearings, and to put it back on you have to go > and buy a new one. Really? You need a new dust cap if you grease the wheel bearings? New one on me. The dust caps on my 9K are reusable, unless you deform them getting them off. The adjustment I referred to was the hub nut, which is certainly adjustable for torque and is something you would check during reassembly after greasing the bearings. <Snipped theory> > As an exercise, remove the pads THEN give the wheels a spin. There ought to > be no difference in free-spin now. Correct, but there is, as described above. If you read the original post Chris, you'll see that he did that. > Unless the bearings are making a grinding sound (which changes in volume on > corners) the bearings are fine and I wouldn't spend the $$ or time changing > them. But I would. At the very least check the torque and then replace the cotter pin on the castle nut with a new one. Given the enormous difference in wheel rotation, I think that he's looking at a soon to fail bearing, not always announced by grating noises. > FYI, the proper torque is in the neighbourhood of 200 foot-pounds. > Basically, as tight as you can get them. Then a bit more. To loosen that > nut, I use a 4-foot pipe fitted over my 18" breaker bar, give it all I can > and the nut will finally pop. This, of course, is with the wheel on the car, > and the car on the ground. Do this with the car on jack stands and you'll > roll the car off the stands. Should we ask how you know this? :-) Chris had mentioned that when he removed the dustcap he found "some wiring and a strange looking toothed wheel" which I'm assuming is the castellated hub nut and either safety wiring or the more normally found cotter pin. Pull the cotter pin Chris, or remove the safety wire, and the castle nut is easily removed with a standard sized deep socket. Regards, James the Elder

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