Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 21:24:20 +0200 From: Robert Brown <rjbnopsamnetNOSPAM.se> Subject: Re: CV joint on '87 900
No worries, Filip. I went through minor hell when I had to learn all the parts' names in Swedish (I have English as my first language, French as second). You'll find that CV stands for "constant velocity". Re-reading your first posting, your problem appears to be identical to what I had last year. Good idea to change them when in doubt - 1) too dangerous to drive if they wear or rust too far, 2) they make ugly noises when worn, 3) it can be hard to get the wheel alignment done right if they're worn. If you can get new ones, don't bother with used ones. Here in Sweden new ones cost about 17 euros apiece (good quality generic i.e. non-Saab). Remember to use underbody spray (the black tar-like stuff) on the nuts securing the two bolts going through each balljoint bracket, after fitting. Makes it easier to remove them later on. Regards, Robert FVB wrote: > I'm sorry, I meant a ball joint the whole time. I have difficulty translating the > part names from Dutch to English. BTW, what does CV stand for? > > Filip > > Robert Brown wrote: > > > Hi, > > > > Referring to Aerod's original post: > > > > You may want to have a look at the left upper balljoint. When balljoints dry > > out or corrode (due to leaking seals), they tend to start creaking (growling). > > Another idea would be to check both suspension wishbones for cracks, if you > > have a Classic 900 (you don't say what model Saab you have). > > > > OTOH a dry upper balljoint can be heard by turning the steering wheel with the > > car standing still, so you may have to look elsewhere. > > > > I don't believe in the CV joint theory, since a worn-out one gives off clicking > > noises at the rate of several per second. Your sound seems be more dependent on > > suspension travel if I understand you correctly. > > > > Tell us what it turned out to be when you find it. > > > > Robert > > > > FVB wrote: > > > > > Got the same problem on my 87 900 8v turbo. The mechanic said it's > > > harmless. Just annoying. But I want to get rid of it too. I found one > > > used CV joint but when I gave it to the mechanic he used it to change one > > > of the two cv joints on the RIGHT hand side of the car although I had the > > > same noise as you had on the left side of the car when cornering to the > > > right. Apparently the one on the right side which he changed was in an > > > even worse shape than the noisy one on the left. Conclusion: these things > > > can even be worn out without giving audible warnings. He showed me the > > > replaced cv joint and one could easily feel that there was some play within > > > the joint cap. One noise did go away when he changed the cvjoint on the > > > right: when I pushed down the front of the car before he did the job, the > > > front would come back up with a rusty spring like noise (the kind of noise > > > when you jump onto an old bed). That sound has gone now. I have meanwhile > > > found another used cv joint so the mechanic can change the one on the left > > > the next time I bring in the car for regular maintenance. There's no harm > > > in using a used one when it's in good shape. You can feel by hand if > > > there's any play. If so, don't use it. Not that it's dangerous in the > > > short term but you'll need to redo the job after you've refitted everyting > > > and you notice the noise is still there after you drive for half a minute. > > > It was hard to find the source of the noise for me too. The mechanic first > > > thought it was the rubber bushings of the shocks, which he needlessly > > > replaced (low cost though). > > > > > > I hope this helps. > > > > > > Filip > > > > > > aerodnopsameja.com wrote: > > > > > > > Have a growling noise coming from the left front. The growling noise > > > > is only present during RH sweeping turns when the LH front is loaded > > > > up. It goes away when the right front tire is loaded. It also seems > > > > present, although to a lessor degree, when at highway speeds. Again, a > > > > slight turn to the left will eliminate the noise. > > > > > > > > Replaced the brakes(easy to do). Thought about the bearing for a > > > > while. Decided to go ahead and do it since it would be a lot less > > > > expensive than a CV joint. Unfortunately, once the new bearing was > > > > installed, I was disappointed to find that the growl was still present. > > > > > > > > Soooo - I am a bit puzzled. Everyone tells me CV joints start clicking > > > > when they wear out. I have rotated the tires since the growling > > > > started so I am sure it is not a tire problem. There was no sign of > > > > any unusual wear on any of the front end components I inspected. > > > > > > > > I can also get the growling by lifting off the throttle on a downhill > > > > thus loading the wheel in the opposite direction from normal. This was > > > > without any steering input although a slight jink to the left would > > > > still reduce the growl. I suppose this could mean a CV problem. Any > > > > ideas? > > > > > > > > Also, if it is the CV, were are some good sources? > > > > Is a used CV joint a NO-NO (how would one tell if it was ready to go?) > > > > > > > > Thanks for the help in advance. > > > > > > > > Aerod > > > > > > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > > > > Before you buy.