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Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 20:36:04 GMT
From: "Ask The MasterTech" <Tsykesnopsamd.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 1994 9000CS timing chain


See the post above this one. I just responded to someone with a question about DI testing. TW http://www.thesaabsite.com "coxinga" <coxinganopsameja.com> wrote in message news:8idf3s$p97$1nopsam1.deja.com... > In article <8fvket$nmt$1nopsam1.deja.com>, > coxinga <coxinganopsameja.com> wrote: > > In article <8fstvp$lgl$1nopsam1.deja.com>, > > coxinga <coxinganopsameja.com> wrote: > > > In article <8frsfo$et9$1nopsam1.deja.com>, > > > coxinga <coxinganopsameja.com> wrote: > > > > After returning from vacation in the end of April, I got a motor > > with > > > > 69k miles to replace mine 100k mile one which was damaged when the > > > > Woodruff key was sheared off at the tip on the timing chain > > sprocket, > > > > making it not turning the cam. > > > > > > > > After considerable car putting in the motor, it won't start. The > > > > following is what I wrote to ask the Saabmasters at Townsend > motors > > > but > > > > was returned undelivered for some reason. I thought I share it > with > > > > you. Any help is appreciated. > > > > > > > > [begin quote] > > > > > > > > What damage may cause to the ignition system by turning over the > > motor > > > > with the Direct Ignition cartridge removed from the spark plugs > but > > > > connected to the wiring? The Haynes manual (page 5B.2) says it > will > > > > damage the DI cartridge. Will it also damage the Engine Control > > Unit? > > > > Also can I test for sparks by removing the DI with all four spark > > > plugs > > > > attached to it? > > > > > > > > I put in a '94 motor with 69k miles in place of my 100k one which > > was > > > > damaged by the timing chain. The timing chain did not break. But > > the > > > > chain was not being turned by the crank shaft on the old motor to > > > drive > > > > the cams because the tip of the Woodruff key on the crank shaft, > > which > > > > the timing chain sprocket engages, was sheared off and failed in > > > > fatigue. When I opened up the timing chain cover and found that > > out, > > > I > > > > reversed the Woodruff key, put the chain back and did a > compression > > > > test to verify compression (there was none). When I did the > > > > compression test, the DI cartridge was connected to the wiring > > leading > > > > to the ECU. It may have damaged the DI cartridge. > > > > > > > > Not wanting to mess around with head rebuild and potentially > damaged > > > > pistons, rods and crankshaft, I decided to replace the motor. To > > > make a > > > > long story short, after I put in the motor with considerable > care, I > > > > started the engine. The motor turns over. But won't start. > > > Initially > > > > I loosened the fuel pod to the injectors and saw no fuel. But > > that's > > > > before I suspected the DI cartridge on the new (well, used) motor > > was > > > > bad and replaced it with the DI cartridge on the damaged motor > (the > > > one > > > > I did the compression test). > > > > > > > > Later, I turned the ignition key on and heard the click of the > pump > > > > relay in the engine compartment. Also, I jumpered the fuel pump > > > > connector (fuse 14) to the hazard switch (fuse 22) and heard the > > fuel > > > > pump whine. After a few minute, the presence of fuel was > confirmed > > by > > > > loosening the bolt on the fuel pod to the injectors, where fuel > > starts > > > > to seep out. Still the motor won't start (with the DI cartridge > > > > suspicious of being damaged). > > > > > > > > Now that fuel is confirmed in the fuel pod, could I remove the DI > > > > cartridge, with the spark plugs attached to see if sparks are > > produced > > > > when the engine turns over? My next step is to replace the > damaged > > DI > > > > cartridge with the good one (the one which came with the 69k mile > > > > motor) and try starting again. If that fails, what else could be > > > > wrong? Does the ECU need to be reset? Of course I could do the > > > > compression test on the 69k motor, this time with the wire > > > disconnected > > > > from the DI cartridge. I highly suspect they sold me a bad motor > > > > though. > > > > > > > > Is there a way to test the DI cartridge and the ECU standing > alone? > > > > > > > > [end quote] > > > > > > > > > > Put in the supposedly good Direct Ignition cartridge from the bought > > > motor and cranked the engine. Still won't start. > > > > > > Removed the DI cartridge and spark plugs. Removed fuse for the fuel > > > pump (fuse 14). Tested compression on each port. All cylinders > > > register over 100 psi at the second piston upswing. Good news. It > > > proved the motor is good. > > > > > > There is fuel in the fuel pod. But is it being injected to the > > > cylinders for combustion? Also, I have to find a way to test for > > > sparks. I need both to have ignition now that I know it will happen > > if > > > there are there because compression is good. > > > > > > I think my next step is to remove the the DI cartridge and spark > > > plugs. Insert the spark plugs to the DI cartridge plug receptacles. > > > Ground each plug to the engine. Crank the motor with the fuel pump > > > fuse removed to see if sparks do occur. If there are sparks, there > > > apparently is a problem with fuel. If there are none, I could have > a > > > bad DI cartridge or a bad ECU. I hope it's not both. Process of > > > elimination. One thing at a time. > > > > > > make you wonder if DI was such a good idea. No wonder no other car > > > makers are following suit. > > > > > > > Pulled the DI cartridge. Pulled the spark plugs and inserted them > into > > the DI cartridge receptacles. Reconnected the wiring to the DI > > cartridge. Stripped a five-foot-long household wiring copper wire (12 > > gage), wrapped it around every plug and then ground it to the engine > > block. Removed the fuse for the fuel pump (fuse 14). Cranked the > > engine. > > > > No sparks! My heart sank. > > > > I wish there is a way to individually test either the DI cartridge or > > ECU. A DI cartridge is $350. How much is a ECU? > > > > As it turned out, there was nothing what-so-ever wrong with how I put > together the car with the bought motor except one thing. The > electrical connector for the motor to the instrument cluster through > the firewall was loose. Once that was properly connected. The car > started and ran like a charm. > > > coxinga > -- > Coxinga/ The 17th century warlord, son of a pirate, who was bestowed > the last name of Ming emperors. He defeated the Dutch to capture > Formosa. A rare victory in the struggle against colonialism by the > East. It spelled the beginning of the end for the Dutch East India Co. > > > Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/ > Before you buy.

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