Date: 27 Jun 2001 08:59:10 -0700 From: yaofengchennopsam.com (Yaofeng Chen) Subject: Re: air in Clutch hydraulic system
"Grunff" <runffnopsamo.com> wrote in message news:<993627291.20754.0.nnrp-12.c1ed028enopsam.demon.co.uk>... > Therein lies the confusion. The pump is only used to pressurise the brakes. > The clutch works in exactly the same way as it did on pre-abs cars. A > low-pressure tube takes fluid from the brake fluid reservoir to the clutch > master. This simply acts as a source of fluid, and is not under pressure. A > high pressure line runs from the master to the slave. And that's it. > > As for bleeding, try this. Go to a garden supply shop, and get yourself a > one-gallon sprayer. A container with a built in hand-pump for pressurising, > and a spray head (<$20). Remove the spray head, and somehow (depending on > what you have available to you) attach an old brake fluid reservoir cap. > Make sure you have a good rubber seal between the cap and reservoir. Use > this to supply pressurised brake fluid to the reservoir. Don't pump it up > too much, if you have a pressure guage, attach it to the tank, and don't go > above 7-8 psi. > > I guarantee this will be the best tool you've ever made. It'll bleed 900 and > 9000 brakes and clutches in 1/4 the time it would normally take. > > Good luck. I am going to go one up on you. Have you heard of the bicycle tube method? It probably costs only $2.99. Use a 16" bicycle inner tube. Cut it. Clamp one end using a giant binder clip after folding one open end several folds. Slip the other end onto the brake fluid reservoir opening. Tighten it just enough with a coolant hose strap on the opening. Get a bicycle pump. Now you're in business. Loosen the slave cylinder nipple. Fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid (before you slip on the bicycle tube, of course). Start pumping gradually. When air bubbles stop coming out but only clear brake fluid, tighten the slave nipple. Done.
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