Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 11:58:43 GMT From: Paul Halliday <pjghnopsamyonder.co.uk> Subject: Re: Where can I find a buyer guide to the classic 900 (not the newer 900/9-3/9-5)
in article MPG.183f8ff471d7e6ad9896b8nopsam.cis.dfn.de, Skodapilot at carl.robsonnopsamcing-czechs.com wrote on 15/11/2002 23:13: > In article <B9FB2866.1153%pjghnopsamyonder.co.uk>, pjghnopsamyonder.co.uk > spouted forth into alt.autos.saab... >> in article MPG.183f734b3c67fd169896b6nopsam.cis.dfn.de, Skodapilot at >> carl.robsonnopsamcing-czechs.com wrote on 15/11/2002 21:11: >> >> <snip>Proposal that the earlier 900 model would be a good start for >> Carl</snip> <snip>Skoda Rally & the Saab 99</snip> > The 130LR Group B Estelle was the last of the Skoda rear engined rally > cars. > And does bear something of a resembelance. > http://www.skoda-owners-club.co.uk/special/s130lr-n.jpg > http://www.skoda-owners-club.co.uk/special/s130lr-e.jpg > http://www.skoda-owners-club.co.uk/special/s130lr-l.jpg That's the one - cool. <snip>Listen to the car :)</snip> > Yeah, that sounds like the kind of things I do. I tend to get to know > every sqeak and creak of a car, and know when something doesn't sound > healthly, even when MOT inspectors don't consider it a problem. That's it - put a couple of thousand miles on the car and you'll know it quite intimately. I've always replaced the rotor arm, cap, leads and sparks at the first possible opportunity and then gone on a good long drive to settle then in and get to know the car. Giving the car every opportunity to fire correctly is a good start. An oil change as soon as possible is good as well - it starts the car off with a known service record :) I've always bitten the bullet and gone for a Wynn's flush and then fully-synthetic - all three 900s I've owned have been fine with it and not dropped afterwards. IMPORTANT: Use NGK sparks only - a whole thread could arise from this point. Do not use *any* other make of spark. Saabs only like NGK and only the right one. Period. There's a wealth of experience in this group as to while product to use. Also, a point on oil leaks. The oil pressure sender? switch? atop the oil filter sometimes leaks - this costs about 0.50 UKP, so not a big deal. The crank case vent sometimes gets gubbed up and oil then leaks out of the bottom of the dipstick tube. Just pop the pipes off the top of the crank case, clean them and get a new dipstick tube - costs about 3.50 UKP. > Yeah. I know not to get over > enthusiastic and think "What the hell" when I look at a car, although my > last two choices of Skoda have both looked dog rough (and looked even > rougher once I've started with them) Both have been basically > structurally sound, and mechanically pefect, and never missed a beat, > maybe I just get a feeling if it is a good one. That's really my point about looking for good bodywork - the engines are generally sound on the 900s and you'll *know* if it's a dog. Good bodywork adds to the pleasure of the car and needs less welding around the sills for the MOT :) <snip>Tackling jobs as an amateur mechanic</snip> The brakes I've replaced have not led to disaster. It's a simple procedure really and well documented in the Haynes. I did have to stop at re-conditioning a brake caliper and just had it replaced with a new one by my Saab mechanics. Cost around 80 UKP, with sending the old one off to be re-conditioned. I do have a slight slip on one of my calipers, but it's only in reverse and I always check that it actually brakes again when moving forwards. It gives a kind of clunk and then sort of falls over slightly on that side :) I'm getting it replaced shortly. Paul 1985 900i 16V 1989 900 Turbo S http://pjgh.go.dyndns.org/saab/index.html
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