Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 22:52:03 -0000 From: MeatballTurbo <carl.robsonnospamcing-czechs.com> Subject: Re: just a thought about my base boost problem.
In article <BA8ACECE.4198%pjghnospamyonder.co.uk>, pjghnospamyonder.co.uk spouted forth into alt.autos.saab... > in article b434uh$1quetb$1nospam52899.news.dfncis.de, Grunff at > grunffnospam.com wrote on 04/03/2003 21:12: > > > MeatballTurbo wrote: > > > >> Just disconnected the hoses, plugged them screws, and tried it out. > >> Boost gauge needle returned to the previous position at about 1/3 white > >> at idle. > >> > >> Took it out for a spin, the dash light for the boost guage is out, but > >> I'm sure as I passed a street light I saw 3/4 yellow, but I was in > >> second, and tyres had just started to light up as I was completing a > >> turn onto a national speed limit road I use to test. > > > > Excellent! > > Good work - 3/4 is about right for normal running. > I gave my modded APC box a run this evening ... Niiiiiiice :P > > >> I had the hose that runs across the bulkhead connected to the valve and > >> the hose that goes under the dash behind the cabin filter connected to > >> the plain barb conenctor. Is that correct? > > > > That's correct. > > Is that (the first one) the one from the intake manifold through the valve? > Does that T-connector on the intake manifold also pressure the APC gauge? > I'm looking into hooking up a graduated vac/boost gauge - does anyone have > source for a suitable gauge? I like the VDO white faced gauges, but cannot > find a retailer. The line that eventually works it's way back across the bulkhead and connects to the manifold yes. I think it does T off and do the Cruise control, and the pressure transducer, but I'm not sure if it does the gauge, or whether that one works from the same hose that connects to the other side of the bottle, off the same conenction as the heater flap control. > >> Just need to work out if it is the cannister, the valve, or my > >> connecting of the hoses that was dud. > > > > Unless the bottle's split, it's the valve. > > In situ, if you can hook up a pump (say a car tyre pump with a gauge) to the > cannister inlet and block the outlet, you should be able to tell if the > cannister is leaking. > > What about removing the cannister, blocking the outlet, pressurising it and > immersing it in a sinkful of water? You'll see where the leak is, if there > is one, and maybe be able to seal it with a puncture repair kit - would that > take the pressure? I think for what it will cost for a secondhand one, I might as well replace both anyway. I think, pressurising the the plane barb will just open the valve side anyway. As it is a one way valve designed to open on vacuum (ie sucking on it from the outside), blowing on it from the inside should open it too. -- Carl Robson (The poster formerly known as Skodapilot) http://www.bouncing-czechs.com
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