Date: Fri, 23 May 2003 09:32:50 -0400
From: 'nuther Bob <>
Subject: Re: Starting to shop

On 22 May 2003 12:41:29 -0700, (Rob) wrote: >I also have a 1997 SE turbo convertible, and I must say I would not >buy it again given the chance. I would go Japanese, personally. If reliability is the main issue, so would I. My Japanese cars are generally more reliable than anything else. However, they require occasional repairs too, parts are expensive, so's labor if you pay. >and price. Unfortunately, they depreciate like hell (which you Discussed here many times before, but to repeat, one main issue is that Saab discounts new models 4K at the end of the Sales Year. This pushes down the resale. Also, Saabs are considered a bit of a "niche" car - that hurts resale. Buy used and save a bundle on a niche car :-) >and fixes come frequently and expensively. I've >dropped 600 into the damned ignition cassette You got shafted, the DI is only $400 at the dealer and spark plugs are $12 (mat $20 dealer). It takes 15 minutes to replace both. Sounds like they charged you a base charge to check the computer, then over (double) charged you for the same time to install the cassette and plugs. BTW - you can get it the cassette for $250 if you look around... and it's a common problem on _all_ DI cars from _all_ manufacturers. >and another grand into a blown head gasket just this year. That is an issue since I've seen too many posted here. They fixed the problem, but the cars were out of the gate already by then. That should not be happening under 100K miles. Still, it is not commonplace. >I've had numerous problems with the a/c system Care to outline ? The only TSB'd item that I know of was a valve in the compressor which was replaced under warranty in most cars. Were there other problems with yours ? I'm interested. >and the cd changer's communication with the stereo head Yep, even Clarion can't fix that problem. Not sure why. Mine was replaced too (head and player twice) and no one could ever pin it down. FWIW, I have a solid workaround for those who care. >That said, I believe for under $10k you could have a great car. From >what I've read, the engine/turbo/trannies are pretty bulletproof in >general -- the problems are more with electrical and hvac. Well, the DI as I said is an issue with every DI car. The HVAC problem that I know of is the interior evap coil - which can set you back $1k. That also should not happen. FWIW, some people get Saab to pay for a big chunk as they apparently feel guilty. I also don't like to think of the $1300 clutch job that I will need some day (most cars would only be $900 or so, caulk it up to bad design). The way I'd figure it is that you get a car for a heavy discount, if even you have to make a couple of repairs you still come out ahead. >If yer gonna get a saab, get a turbo. Yep. >Just check all the lights/gauges/etc. >before you buy. Don't pay much...the Edmunds prices are even too >high...look at what they go for on ebay. Ebay is _not_ the place to establish cars that are bought mostly sight unseen by folks who don't know better. That's true for all makes. I wouldn't buy anything but a parts car from Ebay. Try the KBB book and average the trade and retail to get a private sale price. Buy a car with known history or take a risk - that's true with all cars. >Saabs are good in snow ONLY if you put on winter tires. NOT TRUE. Saabs *GO* in the snow with all season tires. They won't go anywhere with summer tires but neither will any other car. If you only drove with something like Michelin's (allegedly all season) tires installed then it was the fault of crappy tires. Michelins are known to suck in the snow. Check some of the reviews at Tirerack to see what all season tires work. And, with snows installed, a Saab will _not_ stop. >Rob I still get a big grin every time I drive my Saab. I don't get that from my Nissan. Bob

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