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Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2003 12:22:06 GMT
From: "Fred W." <grunffnopsam.com> wrote in message
news:bbhko0$994op$1nopsam52899.news.dfncis.de...
> MarkC wrote:
> > How involving is it to change one of these? I may need one. Is there a
> > way to test check to make sure it's bad?
> > Thanks for any advice,
>
> When they start failing, the inner steel hub moves relative to
> the outer steel ring (because the rubber holding them together
> is old and knackered).
>
> To find out if yours is doing this, draw a thin while line along
> the pulley's radius, all the way from centre to circumference.
> If it ever slips, the line will no longer be continuous.

Should you need to replace it, it's a piece of cake if you have the right
tools.  You need to remove the right wheel and the plastic inside fender
liner, then the multi-rib drive belt has to come off.  Then, while an
assistant is holding the crank from turning by inserting a good sized
screwdriver in the flywheel ring gear (thru the little hole provided between
the engine and transmission), you'll need a big 1/2" drive breaker bar and 1
1/16" socket (or whatever that is in mm's) to remove the bolt on the
crankend.  Once you get the bolt off, the "harmonic balancer" (really just a
crank pulley) slides right off.

You'll want to replace the main seal there while you have the pulley off,
and when you replace it, you'll need a torque wrench so you can tighten the
bolt to spec.

It's all really quite easy...

-Fred

--- so why do all my "metric sockets" have 1/2" drives?

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