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Date: 15 Dec 2003 18:07:10 -0800
From: bgmpslnopsamail.com (bjmpls)
Subject: Re: Hot Running 900 T16 - blocked radiator?


"Mike P" <stickitnopsamranus.com> wrote in message news:<brht9k$26che$1nopsam63316.news.uni-berlin.de>... > Hi, > > Got a problem with my 1987 T16. I've just driven 500 miles up and down the > country over the last couple of days. When I'm in town traffic, the > temperature gauge stays dead in the centre and the fan comes in as it > should. However, when I get up to speeds around 85-90mph on the motorway, > the temperature slowly climbs - it never quite gets to the red, but the car > does get hot. If I turn the heater on full heat, the temperature will drop > pretty quickly back to normal and stay there, no matter how hard I drive the > car. If I turn the heater knob back to "halfway", the temperature will start > climbing again. Turn it back up to max again, temp falls to normal. > > This behaviour only even happens on the motorway at high speed - around town > the car is perfect. No steam/smoke, no loss of power. > > So, could this be a blocked radiator - same symptoms as my Capri 2.8 when > the rad was silted up on that. Not sure if the C900 suffers from that > problem as much though. Or is it the head gasket? Or did I not bleed it > correctly when I flushed the cooling system a month or so back? > > Car DOES use some coolant - around a litre a month. It doesn't appear to be > contaminating the oil, and there's no oil in the coolant. Water pump is a > bit squeaky and it sometimes looks as though it might be leaking from > beneath. I'll change the pump when I get back from holidays in a month.. > Could this be also causing my hot running? Or is that more likely to be a > blocked rad? > > Help!! > > Cheers > Mike Hi Mike Your problem is probably due to the sasklar thermostat linkage. You can spot it as a small, purple knob underneath the right hand side (remember: you are the car, as far as orientation is concerned) radiator shim. You can twist the knob off with a set of Vicegrips, and then substitute a wad of bondo or evern chewing gum (pick your poison). A replacement from the dealer costs about $1235. Aren't Saabs quirky? They are great when everything works, but most things (things that normally don't go wrong in another make of car) start failing after about 80K miles, and the costs start tearing a hole in your kids' college funds or your retirement plan. For example, the speedo in my '96 9000 quit one month after the warranty expired. The problem was a broken plastic impeller that cost $5.39. However, the impelller replacement required PULLING THE ENGINE, at a labor cost of over $500. When you have finally had enough, try this simple cure: 1. Go to Walmart and buy a 30 lb sledgehammer. 2. Go to your favorite liquor or grocery store and buy a six-pack of tall boys. 3. Go home and set up a small table near your Saab; put the chilled tall boys on the table. 4. Starting from the front of the car, bash repeatedly with the sledge hammer until the car is nothing more than a pile of scarp. 5. Make sure you pace yourself and pause for another tall boy as you demolish, for all time, the wallet-eating car par excellence. Hope this helps.

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