Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2004 10:20:10 -0300 From: Busta <BustaNOSPAMnospameastlink.ca> Subject: Re: Need Help with Alternator Replacement for 1997 900
Dexter, I was curious about 2 things in particular, one was the bushings and the other was the brushes/voltage regulator. The car has 190,000km on it and I have read when replacing the alternator, its wise to replace the bushings as well. Did you do this? Do you know how many there are? I also read there is a bushing for the pulley which may need to be adjusted if replaced. Any info on this would be helpful. Also, for the classic 900's, it was possible to take the brushes out and replace them separately correcting the problem. Worn down brushes no longer making contact would explain why it stopped working. Any thoughts on this, or is it even an option in the NG 900's? Thanks, Andrew Dexter J wrote: > Salutations: > > On Mon, 14 Jun 2004 16:49:55 -0300, Busta <BustaNOSPAMnospameastlink.ca> > wrote: > >> Hey Dexter, >> >> Thanks a ton for the info! Drop me an e-mail, I would like to ask you >> some specific questions about the job. >> >> Thanks again, >> >> Andrew >> >> Dexter J wrote: >> >>> Salutations: >>> >>> On Mon, 14 Jun 2004 14:25:10 -0300, Busta >>> <BustaNOSPAMnospameastlink.ca> wrote: >>> >>>> Hello all, I'm new to this group and was wondering if anyone was >>>> familiar with the replacement of an alternator in a 1997 900 2.3L >>>> Non-turbo 4cyc. The dealership did an "AVR" test and said it was >>>> nearly done and I have noticed my battery light coming on as well as >>>> the caution light and constant chiming. >>>> >>>> Surely there is a web site out there with a step by step how-to >>>> pictures etc but I can't find it. If you know of a relevant one let >>>> me know or if you have done it, I would love to hear from you! >>>> >>>> -Andrew >>>> >>>> Bustanospamandara.com >>>> >>> >>> Hey - a relative neighbour! Sorry, no pix - but here's what we did. >>> >>> You need to remove the wheel well shroud on the pulley side of the >>> engine, loosen off the main tensioner and belt, use exactly the >>> correct hex key - which you will likely need to shorten to get in by >>> the frame member - to draw the alternator bolt and remove the unit. >>> >>> You will probably find that the bolt is seriously seized and dusty in >>> there, in which case you need to take your time, hit the bolt at the >>> threads and collars with seaping oil *extensively* and let it sit >>> overnight before you have at the bolt again. If you break it or ream >>> the hex key hole - you are in for a very expensive visit somewhere. >>> >>> Once you have your alternator in hand and have shot some extra lube >>> in the holes and collars on the block to loosen up the corrosion left >>> in there - see if you can rebuild the unit with fresh bearings and >>> internals as it will likely be cheaper than picking up a fresh one >>> and safer overall than buying a used/remanufactured unit from an >>> unknown source. I used Rand on Kempt Rd here in Halifax. >>> >>> Reverse the process to install - check the tensioner pulley for >>> wobble or grind and the main belt for condition and you are on the >>> road again for another 100,000km. >>> >>> Happy motoring - whatever you decide I wouldn't let an alternator go >>> very long as electrical problems in one place tend to burn out >>> components in another and I'd still check for grounds around the car >>> after the fact to make sure the alternator didn't fail for a reason. > > > Well - not much more to add really, but you can flag me through the site > below if something wierd starts happening. It's pretty much plug and > play with the exception that you will have to shorten the hex (or Allan) > key to get the bolt all the way out. > > Be sure to have your radio codes as you need to disconnect the battery > and you will reset. >
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