Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2005 11:53:38 GMT From: Paul Halliday <pjghnospamyonder.co.uk> Subject: Re: 900 VERY annoying trouble
in article nJ_we.10445$oJ.8116nospam-server.bigpond.net.au, pmg at replytogroupnospaml.com wrote on 30/06/2005 23:53: > I have a 1984 900 GLE (Australian) fuel injected (non turbo). It's been > a great car for the 21 years I've owned it and looked after perfectly. > Over the last year the engine will intermittently stop. Often happens > whilst driving. First it loses power and you are foreced to stop where > it will idle only. Press the throttle and it splutters and gasps. Then > eventually it won't even idle and stops completely. Repeated attempts to > start it don't work. Then all of a sudden after a few minutes to an hour > it will start again and run perfectly. Occasionally it will happen from > start in the morning but very often after it's warmed up. It may happen > more in damp weather but certainlyt doesn't need a big soaking. It has > been to my Saab dealer countless times where they can't get it to repeat > the problem. They have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, plug leads, > cold start unit. Can anybody offer any suggestions? It does sound like a combination of dampness and ignition. You didn't say explicitly, but I suspect it to be that little bit after about 5 minutes of starting from cold when the engine starts to shut off parts of the cold start system, but before the car is fully warmed up. Dampness will exacerbate the problem. I see we can discount a clogged fuel filter as the problem, since that has been replaced. I would begin with replacing the other cheap bits, too, such as spark plugs (only use NGK and BP6ES should be right for your car), air filter, rotor arm and distributor cap. A Bosch arm and a Lucas cap are my preferred parts, but they're not as touchy as spark plugs if you use a more generic brand. Perhaps the ignition coil, too, although that is unlikely. Which part of the cold start unit was replaced? The thermo-time switch is the usual culprit when cold starting is difficult. That should be located between the intake runners on top of the block between cylinders 2 & 3. That's the bit that controls the whole cold start system. With the car cold, remove the plug and connect a test lamp in series. The lamp should light. If not, you've got a wiring problem or the switch is broken. Test the cold start injector by removing the plug and connecting a multimeter. You will get voltage when cranking the car. Likewise, the warm-up regulator (the unit with two fuel lines near the thermostat) can be checked by removing the fuel pump relay and bridging terminals 30 & 87. Quickly check for voltage, which should be at least 11.5V. If the idle drops very low during this problematic period (which I suspect it does), the auxiliary air valve is likely to be the problem. This unit supplies more air into the system during warm-up. If it's broken, you'll be experiencing a very rich mixture during warm-up. Again, with a cold car, remove the fuel pump relay and bridge terminals 30 & 87. Switch the ignition on and look through the valve. It should be open when cold and close after about 5 minutes by the thermo-time switch. While you're there, remove the unit from the car and clean it through with carburettor cleaner and then a little lubricating oil, like WD-40. Good luck, Paul Var tog v”gen v”gen? SAAB : Nothing on earth comes close
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