Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 14:35:39 -0500
From: Ben <jimnospamcom>
Subject: Re: Stubborn Front Brake Rotor


Charles C. wrote: > Ben wrote: > >>Charles C. wrote: >> >>>Ben wrote: >>> >>> >>>>Fred W wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>>>- Bob - wrote: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>>On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 10:36:37 -0500, Ben <jimnospamcom> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>>I'm considering, drilling a small hole in the left half of the rotor >>>>>>>screw and try a screw extractor. Then maybe warm the disk up with a >>>>>>>torch and try hammering out again. >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>Well, I had some tips for getting it out... but it's too late for that >>>>>>:-) >>>>>> >>>>>>If you are sure that the screw is not holding it in, and you have >>>>>>removed the caliper, and you are replacing the rotor... here's what >>>>>>I'd do: spray some PB blast around the hub area. The only thing >>>>>>holding the rotor on is the rust at the center of the ring. Then put >>>>>>in your ear plugs and start whacking it with the 8 lb sledge around >>>>>>the outer edge as you rotate it. Eventually the rust will break free >>>>>>and it will come off. Hitting it on the edge (radially) may also help. >>>>>> >>>>>>If you are not replacing the rotor, strategy is the same - just use a >>>>>>wood block and be gentle. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>Yep. I was going to say exactly what Bob said. Except to add that to >>>>>remove the small rotor screw, you should be able to drill off the head >>>>>by using a bit that is slightly larger than the screw thread diameter >>>>>but smaller than the head of the screw. Once you drill out all the >>>>>tapered part the head will fly right off. >>>>> >>>>>Once the head is gone you should be able to get it out with some vice >>>>>grips (after the disk has been removed) no problem. Just make sure to >>>>>juice it with PBblaster and let it soak a while. >>>>> >>>> >>>>Thanks guys! >>>> >>>>I'm off to get some Kroil, or/and PB and a bigger sledge. I'll try to >>>>get the complete screw out and I'll re-spray and let it sit overnight. >>>>Then, the sledge. >>>> >>>>I hope I will not end up replacing the whole hub! >>>> >>> >>> >>>You might :-) Why did you want to remove the rotor (disk) if you were >>>only changing the pads? As others said ... if the top of it broke the >>>rotor should come free quite easy and leave all drilling until after you >>>have the rotor off. >>> >>>What is the head of the screw on a 9-3 like. Pozidrive (spelling?) size >>>1? if yes it would have needed an impact screwdriver like so >>>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=37530 >>> >>>Use copper paste on reassembly. >>> >>>Good luck. >>>Charles >>> >>> >>> >> >>Hi Charles, >> >>Here's a snippet of the original post: >> >>"I'm doing rotors and pads on a 1999, 9-3, manual. >> > > <snip> > > A clear indication that I can't read and I should not post to n/groups > too late at night :-D Oh, damn here I go do it again. > > I am sorry, I should have read all your post and not the bits I wanted > to remember. > > Charles > Long story short, I ended up replacing the steering knuckle + hub. For $200CAD I got the whole thing from a scrap yard. It is in excellent shape (compared to mine) and even the wheel bearing looked new. The brake disk and the holding screw came off it without a hitch, I swapped my strut insert and coil spring, used the better thrust bearing and it went on the car asap. New brake disk and pads went on, I made sure to use copper grease on the biding faces. The car runs great, no more vibrations or noises and I did an alignment already (had to put winters on anyway). I took the old hub and stuck disk to work, where we tried using all kinds of presses, a torch and a hammer chisel. The disk is not coming off the hub. So me and my 4lb hammer and a wood block were going nowhere... In the long run, I think I made the right decision. 200,000 km and running great! Thanks all for help, Ben

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