Motor mount replacement   

Townsend has a good write-up, and it includes instructions on modifying the mount to limit its travel.  I have taken his modification a step further.  Townsend's mod cuts the mount travel from about an inch to about 3/4".  My modification cuts mount travel to about 1/2".  My mount mods.

The limit bracket that runs up and over the front of the mount is secured by a 10mm nut on one side and it looks like something that needs to be removed, but don't do it!  It's a waste of time because the limit bracket is spot welded on the other end.  There's no need to remove that nut.  There's a washer-like thing with a tab on it that contacts the mount to limit travel; make sure you get it on right side up.  The U-bend goes up, not down.  The limit stop plate on the rear mount is flat.

•  a 2" extension for your ratchet (or two 1") for the front bolt on the front mount
  • not a 3"; it's too long
  • NOTE: A 3/8" drive 13mm socket, a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adapter and a 1/2" drive ratchet should also work
• a 16mm socket (5/8" will do) for the center nut on the mount

Put the right front corner of the car on a jack stand

• Put the stand under the side frame, behind the rear mount bracket of the front suspension
  • Not under the subframe, as you'll need to loosen the subframe later
  • Here's a pic

 Remove the right front wheel.

• The front mount is clearly visible to your right as you look into the wheel well.  Picture
  

Using a ratchet and socket, remove the bolt from the center of the mount.  Picture

• it's a weird size: 16mm or 5/8" will fit it
  

Remove the 13mm rear bolt for the front mount.  Picture

• You'll need a very short extension.  I used a 3/8" drive 13mm socket, a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adapter (to act as a very short extension) and a 1/2" drive ratchet.
• reach over the mount and its limit bracket and put the socket onto the bolt head
• attach the ratchet and wail
  • (you might be able to put the ratchet on first and still get to the nut, but it's easier to position the socket first)
    

• Remove the center bolt from the rear mount.  The power steering hose is in the way from below, so I found that the best way to get it was to fit a 10" or 12" extension to the 16 mm or 5/8"socket, then fit a universal joint to that and then assemble a couple of feet of various extensions to allow access from the top.  Picture  Thread the tool assembly down from above, then engage the socket from below.  You can't see the bolt head, but it's at the bottom of the bracket that comes down to the rear mount from the engine.  A second person would be helpful here.

• Disconnect and remove the torque rod (one bolt, one bolt & nut)
  • it's the "top mount", above the engine, toward the rear, passenger side  Picture

Carefully jack up the engine (put a piece of wood between the jack & the oil pan)

• keep an eye on things from the top as you jack; avoid stressing any cables or hoses, or mashing anything
• my engine went as high as it would go without incident.
  

 Now if the front mount is busted, you can pull the center rubber piece and then the base out

•  you can't get the new mount in, though, because it's new and in one piece and in good shape.
  

So loosen the subframe bolts on the right side  Picture

• Two 13 mm bolts at the front corner (remove them)
• The two toward the hinge point (14 mm nuts, 17 mm bolt heads on top, I think)
• Loosening the one at the "stay rod" (in-board of the ball joint) helps, I think
• Don't worry about anything falling out, as long as the engine is supported.  There is no load from the suspension springs, as they are retained by the shock absorber assemblies.  The subframe does support the transmission on the driver's side, but you won't be loosening anything on that side.
  

Pry the front corner of the subframe down until you can insert the new mount

• watch your fingers!  Best to insert a block between frame and subframe
  • an inch and a half  or so thick
• the mount will go in from the wheel well side
• the secret is to rotate it forward or sideways into the hole, then rotate it back to upright  Picture
  

The rear mount, should you decide to do it, is secured by three bolts with nuts.  While this sounds much worse than the front mount's bolts-into-the-frame, it actually works out nicely.  You can hold the bolt heads above with an open end wrench, then ratchet the nuts off from below.  Picture

• the subframe doesn't have to be dropped to get the rear mount in/out.
• the secret (as I recall) is to remove it toward the left (U.S. driver's) side of the car, and perhaps forward as well.
• lift it up, slide it over, drop it down through the only opening available
• installation is the reverse.
  

Release the subframe and re-attach the sub frame bolts (good & snug; don't wring them off; 40 ft-lbs is the official torque).

Install all mount bolts loosely, then drop the engine bracket down onto the mounts and install the center mount bolts, then tighten the mount bolts/nuts.

• I  don't have torque values, but they don't need to be much more than good and snug.
• Take care when aligning, and lever the engine to line it up.  Work patiently, to avoid cross-threading.

Torque rod replacement notes

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