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Blower fan motor remove removal tips DIY
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Posted by GaryS [Email] (more from GaryS) on Tue, 27 Mar 2007 18:16:03 Share Post by Email
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At about 85K miles the heater/AC blower became erratic, mostly in colder weather. The dash indicator had full bars but no air. Shutting it off had no effect. Three months later it quit entirely. Other postings include most of what I say here but I thought I'd compile it and add a few things. Some postings suggest the same symptoms from a motor controller but that was not the case here.

Take the wipers off by removing the 15 mm nuts. You may have to use a battery terminal puller as they are often corroded. Be cautious about prying against the glass as there are reports here of people breaking the glass. Take the tension off the blade pressing against the glass and it might help, use some liquid wrench, and shake it back and forth. Grease these when you reassemble.

Remove the cowling cover by taking out the two press-in fasteners at each end. The pull the cowling cover parallel to the windshield towards the front of the car. Do not pull up. There are a series of plastic clips that hold it against the windshield that you will break if you pull or pry up. And they're put on with heat melting some plastic. ( I broke a couple and had apparent luck re-gluing them with Gorilla glue.) There are posts about the cowling cover being the primary water seal for this area, but I think that's baloney.

Next pull off the inner cover surrounding the passenger wiper. It clips on.

Remove the wiper assembly held by the four 10mm bolts - two hold the wiper motor in and two hold the arms on the pivots. You don't have to disconnect the wires, just move it out of the way some.

Next the center bracket that holds the passenger wiper pivot needs to come off. You can see the two 10mm bolts on the front but there's one underneath too. Just loosen the underneath one - the bracket has a slot that goes around it and the bracket can pull off.

Next remove the 10m bolt and nut that holds that 45 degree metal support bracket off to the left.

The outer motor cover (which also holds the motor in place) is held on with four 6 mm hex/phillips head screws. The back right one is the toughest to reach. Disconnect the motor wire and pull it through the cover.

Now that plastic tub that holds the motor needs to be loosened enough to make room for the motor to come out. Two 10 mm silver hex nuts hold the front down, and two weird plastic clips hold the middle part. When loose, move it as far forward as you can.

The motor/fan unit can then be squeezed out. The upper part of the firewall extension metal flexes and you'll need every bit. Yes the squirel cage will bend - mine did not break as it is soft plastic. I pulled the motor end out first from the left side but there may be a better way.

Once out, the motor has 2 silver clips that hold the brushes in. There's a picture posted on this site. My brushes had about 3/8 inch left but the clear problem was that the commutator in the motor was very dirty and black. I used a fine small file and emery paper to clean it up, then reassembled and tested it - worked fine, but I'd guess it buys me maybe 5,000 more miles. I believe it worked in spite of the dirty commutator because there was enough spring tension on the brushes. Once they wore down, though, it wasn't enough. Several people have posts searching for brushes but I found no reply.

Took me at least 2 hours, but I could do it now in 20 minutes.


posted by 70.247.125...


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