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Right Hand Axle Inner Boot Replacement Instructions Posted by JohnPeg [Email]  (#2376) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from JohnPeg) on Mon, 26 Oct 2009 16:24:13
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I just replaced the right hand inner driveshaft boot on my 2004 Arc/manual transmission. The boot was leaking grease so it needed immediate attention. I have got much help from this board over the years, first with my 9000 and also the 9-5 and so this is my first payback contribution.
The following detailed instructions are what I can remember from the job. I don't have a camera so there are no pics. My memory is great but real short so I may have omitted an item or two but I can't imagine what it/they could be. I just hope that this can help somebody sometime.
Right Hand Axle Inner Boot Replacement
1. Loosen the wheel attach bolts. (17 mm socket)
2. Jack up front of car and put on jack stands.
3. Remove wheel bolts and wheel.
4. Remove inner engine shield in wheelwell. (8 mm socket)
5. Get someone to stand on the brake pedal while you remove the axle shaft nut. (32 mm socket)
6. Remove brake line and ABS line from their supports on the forward side of the strut.
7. Remove brake caliper and suspend from suspension spring (piece of coat hanger wire) then remove caliper bracket (E-torx socket - 20 mm).
8. Remove brake rotor. (Phillips screwdriver)
9. Remove tie rod end from the hub. (15 mm socket maybe??)
10. Remove anti-roll bar link from the strut. (14 mm socket maybe???
11. Remove headlight levelling arm from lower control arm (2 - 10 mm wrenches), remove the levelling switch from the subframe bracket (10 mm socket) and suspend from suspension spring. (piece of wire)
12. Use a three legged puller to loosen the hub from the axle. Don’t beat on it with a hammer and wreck something in the shaft or transmission.
13. Pull the strut outboard and aft in order to remove the end of the axle from the strut and then rest the axle on a box or something at axle level. (have it ready and handy to you in advance)
14. Slide underneath the car and using a long drift and a hammer rap on the inner end of the right hand inner coupling where it enters the intermediate shaft until the inner coupling separates from the intermediate shaft by about 1 inch or so.
15. Slide out from underneath the car, grab the axle and tug on it. It should come out in your hands. If it doesn’t then hammer some more on the inner coupling.
16. If you ignore steps 9 and 10 and then try to undo the inner coupling before you pull the axle from the hub, you’ll find that you don’t have quite enough room to maneuver the axle around and you’ll end up breaking something.
17. Put the axle vertically in a vise with wood or leather on the vice jaws.
18. Mark (paint stripe or centre punch mark) the inner coupling and the shaft so they can go back together in the same place.
19. CAREFULLY remove the inner coupling from the tripod and rollers.
20. Clean as much grease from the parts as you can. Do not use a liquid of any kind.
21. Mark (paint stripe or centre punch mark) the tripod bearing carrier and the shaft so they can go back together in the same place.
22. Use a puller to remove the tripod bearing carrier from the shaft. If it won’t move then CAREFULLY take the entire assembly to a decently equipped machine shop and have them remove it for you for about $16.00 cost.
23. Really, seriously clean all the parts again as in step 20. (the axle is still in the vise)
24. Place the small clamp and the new boot on the shaft. Do not tighten the clamp.
25. Put a thin coating of anti-seize or anti-corrosion (LPS 3) on the splines of the shaft, heat (moderately) the tripod bearing carrier with a heat gun and then hammer the bearing carrier into place with a socket until the chamfer on the carrier (inner side only) is against the bevel on the shaft.
26. Put the small end of the boot into place and tighten the small clamp on it using CV joint boot pliers.
27. Grease the heck out of the tripod rollers and bearings and the inside of the inner coupling with new CV joint grease.
28. Place the inner coupling over the end of the shaft and tripod bearings and then work the boot into place around the external edge of the coupling (fussy, messy job that may or may not require someone to hold the coupling for you).
29. Install the bigger clamp and tighten it using CV joint boot pliers.
30. Make sure that the locking ring is in place on the end of the shaft.
31. Consult step 15 where you pulled the axle out but instead of pulling you now push the axle into place smartly to make sure that it locks itself to the intermediate shaft and then rest the axle on a something at axle level. (have it ready and handy to you in advance). You may have to tap the inner coupling to get it all the way home.
32. Work backwards from step 14 to step 1, putting the axle nut on by hand at step 12 and torquing it to 170 lbs/ft at step 5.
Not an impossible job at all, just fussy and dirty at times. Take great care with the tripod rollers, clean everything, use new grease and life should be good. Have fun.
If the formatting messes up these instructions, then I'll try to find some other way to make them available.
posted by 24.76.162...
, Mon, 26 Oct 2009 16:24:13 <-- Viewing This Message, Wed, 28 Oct 2009 10:43:17, Mon, 26 Oct 2009 18:18:27
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