1999-2009 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
drs_install
Other things to watch for:
When removing the metal bracket that holds the engine harness plug, note that the harness going to the RHS of the cowel dove-tails to the bracket. Get that inserted before replacing the bracket on the FireWall. The harness has a cover on the firewall that pulls off. The harness cover back-plate insert over studs and pulls away from the FW.
The engine harness connector is not very good. The inside of the plug has a lot of road dirt in it, that I blew out with shop air.
Put the new tie rap behind the other harness in the FW before installing the new valve. Something else other than black will be easier to see in the black pit.
Note orientation of the control valve bracket that mounts to the bottom of the valve. You need to put these apart and then connect together later on.
To not spill coolant, run a 1/4" nylon time into the reservoir and siphon fluid out. Now that you can see better, insert the tube down into the hose that exits the bottom of the reservoir. That will bring fluid level down below the level of the upper rad hose. Remove upper rad hose and run a tube down the rad's side tank and siphon out more. You can easily get out around 1.5 US gallons. When I removed the heater valve, things were dry.
While the siphon is running, check/correct the water level in your battery [if possible]. A larger tube will run faster. Keep an eye on the container receiving the coolant and do not let it overflow, use two clean empty 1 gal containers.
Forget the rad's drain valve, it is very difficult to get to and then very hard to turn with hand out of position.
Difficulty: The hose clamps for the valve were stuck to the hoses. Had to wrestle them free. Was easier to pull the hoses off, using Sear's clamp pliers, the free the clamps and slide them back afterwards. I put a thin film of silicone on the exterior of the hoses to prevent that from happening again. Never apply silicone or any grease to the interface of the hose and hose-barbs as this can lead to hoses blowing off. Friction is needed there.
Do label the hoses. You will be removing 4 vac lines. I cleaned the hoses and put multiple dots on the hoses. Do not mark the dirt, clean where you mark. I put matching counts of dots on the valve. I used a green perm marker. Red might be better.
To remove the harness connector from the valve that is riveted to the harness bracket, it will be easier to remove the stainless steel wire clip first. Then replace. The connector took a lot of force to install.
Fill and run to warm, topping up, turn up the heater to HI and rev the engine to flush air out of the heater core. Take for a drive and add fluid as required. Check level after some normal driving.
What was wrong with the old valve? The diaphragm top cover is easy to pop off. The red silicone diaphragm was perfect. The diaphragm plate can only be removed destructively and with great difficulty. Under that there is a small diaphragm seal between the shaft and the valve body. That had radial tears [the leak]. The lower part of the valve, the lowest hose barb is pressed in and can be knocked free to reveal that the valve plug is riveted to the brass shaft. When that is removed and the bits above destroyed, the shaft and valve plug come out the bottom. If the main diaphragm leaks a bit, that is just a small amount of air flow and would not have any consequence.
I did remove the battery terminals for cleaning and maintenance. The radio did not loose its station presets!
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