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Some more details - long Posted by saabsince 93b [Email]  (#972)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from saabsince 93b) on Mon, 24 Sep 2012 07:49:43
In Reply to: can you elaborate? ..., GFW3pedals  [Profile/Gallery]
, Mon, 24 Sep 2012 06:55:07
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I was easier than I thought it would be. I found a post on a site in which "Saab is central" .....hint...in the mark 1 Saab 95 performance area. Google may turn it up too. This post was very helpful with lots of photos and step by step in getting the console apart and the shifter out.
I did not take photos of all of this dis-assembly, but I could write a step by step.
The console is quite logical to take apart, and there are 4 T 30 screws that hold it to the floor.
The WIS has lots of details on doing all these steps.
Last step is to remove a 13mm bolt that holds the shaft to the shifter. Put the car in neutral and reach under there with a 13mm socket and short extension. Break the bolt loose and remove and the shift housing and shifter comes out.
Now I will do some step by step:
1. remove the plastic shifter ball from the housing by inserting a flat screwdriver in the 3 obvious spots that have a plastic tang that holds the ball in the housing. It is very obvious when you look at it......ball pops right out with the shifter.
2. Mount the old shaft in a vice. Wrap the area where your finger pulls up for reverse with masking tape.
3. Take a 24mm open end wrench insert it where you just put the tape. Tap the wrench a couple of upward blows with a hammer and the shifter knob and the reverse collar that goes down the shaft come out as one piece. WIS has good drawing and instructions on this. Easier than this description sounds.
4. Remove the reverse gear ignition key lock mechanism. A torx 25 bolt and pull our the spring and all several pieces come out. Very obvious how they work. You will leave one white plastic arm in there. You will not have to be in reverse to pull out the key. If you don't want to get rid of this....just leave it in.
Also remove the plastic bushings and the steel sleeve at the bottom of the old shifter shaft. Install in the new arm with new plastic bushings.
5. Nick has a drawing of making the bottom of the 2" hole that is now sort of square. You need to make it round like the rest of the diameter. He includes a full scale drawing. Instructions say to use a grinder. I used a 12 or 14" long half round file and it worked very well. This was the part I was worried about and I had a 2" hole cutter and a grinder standing by, but tried the file.....boy does that work well. It is not too hard or tricky, because you are just opening the bottom to match the rest of the bore at 2". And the part at the bottom that makes the hole square is a 1/16 to 1/8" thick, so it files very quickly. If you have a big enough file you almost fit the diameter, so the curvature is easy to match.
6. Drill a 3/4" hole in the side of the housing where there is a raised section to make fitting the shifter bolt easier on reassembly. Nick does this on his factory installations. I used a 1/8 drill to start and then used a HF step drill to open it big enough for a 13mm socket to fit in. When you are done make sure the white plastic piece is in place....see Nick's instructions. This allows the shifter to rub on plastic for the 1 and 2 shifts.
7. Install the shifter in your new hole using Nick's instructions. You need to get a lot of fingers in there because you need to locate 3 screw heads and tighten down on 3 10mm self locking nuts. Actually not as bad as it sounds and a breeze if you have another set of hands to help.
8. Install the shifter. Plug the ignition switch wire back in. Put the bolt for the shaft though your new hole and tighten it up. I use a little locktite to be safe on the bolt. Bolt the 4 screws to the floor. Then try the shifting.
I did not have to adjust the shift mechanism. Nick sells a couple of pins to to that or you can use 5mm bolts. You put the car in 4th gear. Put a pint in the trans [look at WIS] and another in the shifter. If the shifter locating pin does not fit, loosen the shift shaft connection under the hood and align with both pins in and then tighten....easy.
Bottom line...... WELL WORTH THE TIME. and effort. I should have done this the day Nick released this kit. What a difference. Shifts are shorter, but the precision is what gets you. And my old ball did not seem to be very worn at all.
When you order the shifter, also get the 2 plastic bushings for the pivot point, and order a set of adjusting pins from Nick....just a few bucks more. And if you don't have the poly transmission torque are bushing get one of those for $35, this bushing is a great improvement too.
->Posting last edited on Mon, 24 Sep 2012 09:20:09.
_______________________________________ NOW OWN: 2000 95 Imola Red Aero 5 door stick - my ride HAVE OWNED: 2003 95 Black Aero 4 door auto Mary Ann's car 2004 95 Black Aero 5 door wagon 2001 95 Silver Aero 4 door stick 2001 95 Silver Aero 5 door wagon automatic 1999 95 Combi stick 1997 9000 Aero stick red 1988 900 SPG black 1988 900 Convertible black 1985 900 3 door turbo spg kit silver 1979 900 3 door turbo early 900 production 1966 96 2 stroke red 1960 95 wagon red 1959 93b light yellow
, Sun, 23 Sep 2012 07:48:34, Mon, 24 Sep 2012 06:55:07, Mon, 24 Sep 2012 07:49:43 <-- Viewing This Message, Mon, 24 Sep 2012 16:47:33, Sun, 23 Sep 2012 18:56:25, Mon, 24 Sep 2012 20:48:51, Mon, 24 Sep 2012 07:50:28
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